Denim duo Patric DiCaprio and Bryn Taubensee took their opening day booth and turned it into a mediation on money, late capitalism, and nepo babies. The confident and sometimes confrontational collection was a dose of reality about fashion as a business while also reaching a new creative level.
“We, by necessity, have had to become obsessed with money. Precisely in this industry you need money to survive and New York is expensive. We didn't start this business to make money. But that's what we have to do. Then I thought: it's on our minds all the time. “It’s on everyone’s mind,” Taubensee said.
“Then why not make clothes out of it?” DiCaprio added, finishing his sentence.
They touched on the question of cultural (and also all-too-real) currency. What does it take to make it as a young designer when famous kids can put their name on some products and call them a fashion line? DiCaprio emphasized that they come from places far removed from the fashion field, with their home states of Alabama and Indiana. There are no nepo babies here.
Dollar bill prints were the most literal interpretation, on long scarves, pointed-collared shirts and ruffled dresses. They also traded in the classic and obvious meanings of money with oversized faux fur coats, chubby coats, demure gloves and clutches. The looks were paired with Badgley Mischka-style crystal buckle heels (Carrie Bradshaw, anyone?) and other dainty footwear.
The atmosphere soon gave way to confrontation with frontal cutouts and shreds of netting that took nudity to the extreme. Other looks featured outrageously pointed shoulders over plumps of shiny faux fur and oversized floral appliqués, while a voiceover questioned whether you can buy art to buy credibility.
They kept some signature references, like a babydoll-style sailor dress, from seasons past, then upgraded with hoop skirts made from buoys that floated around the models' bodies. There were also many pieces that will pair well with the current “mob wife” mini trend.
DiCaprio and Taubensee polished their gritty edges enough to make a statement. Money can't buy love, but it translates into sales much better.
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