Deepening her collaboration with the Paris Opera Ballet, Aelis creative director Sofia Crociani accessed costume archives and gained new shapes and textiles to work with for her largely recycled and eco-friendly collection.
She worked with vintage garments, mostly cotton crinolines and petticoats, which she used to create a more structured shape than previous collections. One skirt had pannier hips to achieve enormous rococo proportions, which was offset by a sheer pink top that added a modern, more confrontational touch.
Elsewhere she wore a corset over a black minidress as a statement about how women move and protect their bodies.
Much of the collection was classic Crociani with its deconstructed dresses, sheer silk draped over the body or shreds of tulle cinched with ribbons or vintage jewelry. A sweet, light-as-air pink was accessorized with a heavy chain and jewelry to good effect, while other looks worked with the balletic core she often explores.
“I tried to have a dialogue with that history,” Crociani said of counterbalancing period clothing with contemporary customs.
However, a denim bikini top paired with layered skirts and a leggings and blazer look undercut her statement.
The show took place on the top floor of the Opera Bastille, with sweeping views of the city. The backdrop added gravitas to the collection, but a solo cellist added a solemn air. Barefoot models moving at a glacial pace didn't help matters.
