Thom Browne, Michael Kors and Norma Kamali

Last but not least, on Tuesday he witnessed the final action at the fashion week of six days in New York. And the best until now, with powerful screens from three key American designers: Thom Browne, Michael Kors and Norma Kamali.

Thom Browne: Ornithology

“The key to American fashion is to mix the classic with the conceptual,” Browne insisted, who mash the Japanese culture, the style of New England, his little fetish gray suit and the observation of birds, in a bold and frequently beautiful show.

Presented at the Griffin Theater on the last floor of the shed, a space of giant shows in Hudson Yards, the scene was established by hundreds of originating birds ingeniously folded, a herd in a classic work desk in which a single dog Blanco perched on a white cage.

Dozens of Robins, Cuervos, Uracas or Falcones flew through the collection, delicately embroidered on a large collection of classic fabrics of the house. All tweeds, window apartments and prince of Wales, often used in Patchworks, were specially developed for the collection by British and Irish factories. Classic materials also improved with graphic lines of Stras crystals.

Browne's love for Japan was evident in everything: narrow skirts that hug the floor with kimono jackets, although with buttons. The girls and boys with Maiko styles with Kanzashi ornaments. In a remarkable makeup, light feathers apparently sprouted from many women's eyelashes. Other members of the cast had blackened eyebrows, in a visual word game in the Super Bowl last weekend.

Occasionally, Thom covered coats in wax, making them look used in the yellow Rothko Purple or Rothko. Although his best invention were cocktails with bias made in the inclined lines of the classic ties of PREPPY, the hairstyle and satin wool. Call it the 'preparation'.

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Post-Show, the designer revealed that he had inspired a recent documentary about bird observation, and his cast was qualified for that hobby, in giant duck boots in the style of beans, although in the fetish Cadet Gray of Thom. The same tone provided the base for a reddish wedding dress used by Alek Wek. Fold acres, crowned by a brilliant Kimono -style jacket, as well as the one that opened the show.

Browne's shows can sometimes become slightly academic exhibitions of fashion historicism. But not this season, where Thom crossed many barriers, creating what is probably his most cunning, elegant and unexpected collection in a unique race.

An appropriate ending for the Browne season, who is also president of the Fashion Designers Council of America, who governs the track calendar in New York, was felt. Clearly, in excellent form, Thom celebrated this final moment presenting her fashion husband, Master Master Andrew Bolton, with a bouquet of flowers.

Michael Kors: Degagé in Chelsea

Michael Kors has had enough cell phones and hyperactivity, and his latest collection certainly demonstrated it.

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Much more indulgent cut, with a large number of holks and many pockets, its new wardrobe for the next fall was the most relaxed and unbearable in New York.

“The world is very crazy. Every 10 minutes we have a news alert. It is too much. We spent too much time on our phones, and I wanted A previous view prior to the show at its 42nd headquarters.

Michael sent Blazers so wide that they moved sensually; Black leather gabardines softened and made with huge folds; Many girls wore boyfriend jackets that were seen two too large sizes. The skirts were as pleasant and hung asymmetrically; The trenches were hyper fluids; And the jackets were indulgent as cardigans.

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“The United States is the place where comfort became king. But the French have the best word for this, 'Degage', “he said, pointing out a humor board that included timeless icons such as Uma Thurman and Lauren Hutton.

The stage was super concise: a clean and extended modernism of the track with touches of Noguchi or George Nakashima, whose furniture Michael collects. And whose determination not to tear material was the inspiration for a large new bag, made of one piece of leather without seams. However, Michael also finished his Manhattan bags in Faux Horsehair to add a lot of board.

Above all, the collection felt like a very deliberate counteract to excess. And for Kanye West and his wife Bianca Censori, who wore a completely transparent dress without underwear for recent Grammy awards.

“I will not mention names, but that was ridiculous. Sexy is about movement, ”Olfató Kors.

Kamali Norma: Back with an explosion

Norma Kamali has returned, and how. After an intensive AI course he took at MIT, the latest veteran designs have a new Elan, seen in an excellent collection presented on Tuesday morning.

Kamali organized his first presentation in many years in West Village, the neighborhood that calls her home. The new selection for autumn 2025 reviewed the standard classics, such as the famous coat of the sleeping sack or its second leather appearance. But it took them to a new place. The first one that appears in some large autumn impressions of silver birch and fallen leaves, where the AI ​​will help to ensure that the copy would be prevented.

While his ideas of Vegan leather were the most modern in New York. Second leather shirts; Rockers that embrace figures; thicker chopped dresses; A series of driver or even Cheongsams. Shown in stockman, many with hats, trilbys and bowling players.

The sense of Norma's futurism was also evident in some intelligent monkeys, which reminded their famous early parachute, and a great intergalactic traveler of padded Gingham Parkas, which like everything in the collection can be washed by machine.

The business is now fast with suppliers such as Revolve and Mytheresa with high sales.

He is not bad at a 79 -year -old woman who still has her own brand, 56 years after founding her.
Congratulations to Norma.