Translated by
Nicola Mira
Published
July 4, 2025
Male clothes took a stage center in June. The season began with the Pitti Uomo Show in Florence, continued with Milan's Fashion Week and ended with the Jacquemus Runway Show that led to Paris Fashion Week in order to end in The Onangery at the Palace of Versailles, on June 29. Two weeks during which the Center for Attention was in the collections of men for spring/summer 2026. What were the fins of fashion buyers after this intense fortnight? Fashionnetwork.com has discussed some of them with Alice Feillard, head of male clothing shopping at Lafayette galleries.
Feillard has always considered Pitti uomo as a key occasion to analyze different categories of products and positioning segments.
“Pitti's session was extremely positive, full of energy and quality,” he said. “We always discover new labels [at Pitti] And enjoy meeting with labels with which we work, such as Homme Plissé, the guest of honor of the program, who presented a very fine collection in the garden of a sublime Medici Palazzo. Pitti establishes the tone for the season, both in terms of trends and business. Milan was quieter, there were some big names that will be shown in September, but this allowed more younger niche labels to emerge and enjoy better visibility, such as Umit Benan, Setchu and Vivienne Westwood, ”he added.

Feillard observed that the French capital remains the world's key fashion center, the main place for shows and exhibition rooms for established and emerging labels. “The last week of Paris's fashion was a declaration of love for fashion, an ode to optimism and creativity with a very high execution standard,” he said, which stresses that this would apply to both the main labels and independent designers.
“While the market situation is difficult, the labels have decided to boost the envelope of creativity, which was what the industry needed: renewed desire, emotional attraction and perceived value as a way of restoring customer confidence,” he added.
It was a decision to invest that, according to Feillard, was evident in the context of many of the shows. She cited “The great environment of Louis Vuitton in the Beaubourg Spotourt”, as well as the spectacular performance of Rick Owens at the source of the Palais de Tokyo, at the same time punk, poetic and primitive; the very Parisian film environment created by AMI instead des Victoires; The choice of Y-3 of a dance performance; and manga fan Louis Gabriel Nouchi, who screened an animated film during his discreet presentation at the silence club. ”
Feillard acknowledges that the main events of the season took place in Paris, including Jonathan Anderson's highly anticipated debut in Dior Homme. “Dior is writing a new exciting chapter in his history, headed by one of the most talented designers of his generation. Adopting his well -known conceptual approach, Jonathan Anderson skillfully took advantage of Dior's inheritance and archives to boost the house to the future, presenting a decidedly avant -garde, rather intellectual collection,” he said.

Classifying among the top five of Feilllard, there was another debut, Julian Klausner in Dries Van Noten. “All dries codes where they are there, but the younger silhouettes, the clearest cuts and the most clear colors gave the collection a strong touch of modernity,” he said.
Feillard also mentioned to Lemaire that, “season after season, it continues to show a practically perfect wardrobe, anchored in reality and highly desirable,” Saint Laurent for his “sensuality and fluidity and a magnificent color palette”, and Jacquemus media expert, which “presented a beautiful individual collection rooted in its DNA.

Feillard also appreciated some less known creative talents, such as Hed Mayner, Auralee, 3.paradis, Kidsuper and Louis Gabriel Nouchi, and believes that “the investigation of Willy Chavarria and Kartik were the revelations of Paris Fashion Week, organizing extremely convincing shows.” He added that Alainpaul, the last winner of the Acam Award, will be available at Lafayette Galleries next season.
In general, Feillard was positive about the perspectives for spring/summer 2026. He observed that most of next summer's collections presented light, almost ethereal materials, placing the accent of fluid and sophisticated tailoring. He also expects “an injection of vibrant colors, after several seasons of monochromatic tones, although the mole and chocolate brown will remain omnipresent.”
Feillard's favorite articles were “a wide double chest jacket that is used on pants with generous darts, a mole -colored suede jacket, a comfortable striped shirt, an elegant game of striped pajamas, shorts and microsharts.” For the first part of the season, he liked “a coat of cotton or light nylon.” To complete their appearance, men will use “soft leather moccasins and, for the summer, a pair of minimalist leather flops.”
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