In another part of: Paris: Lagerfeld, Torishéju, Olivia von Halle

Lagerfeld: very the vigie

A Mediterranean mood at Lagerfeld's house, where the Leitmotif was the Vigie, the beautiful villa/palace in which Karl resided on the border of Monaco and France.

The elegantly easy mood of the Vigie floated through the collection. The Monaco print appeared in a series of elegiac sketches by the sea, which appear in cotton pajamas, silk shirts and denim jackets.

“Karl lived there very happy for many years. The Vigie was a great village, but also a tropical garden with many birds,” said Lagerfeld Kun Kim designer at a presentation at the headquarters of the Villa of the city of the brand in St. Germain.

The classic Vigie lines also inspired the construction of clothing, many of which have large shoulders. Kun riffo in the 1980s with many power silhouettes and even white shirts with padded shoulders.

Sticking with the neoexpressionist DNA of the house, Kun presented a matte sweater cocktail, very intelligent silk pajama pants cut in a KL signature frieze, or a twin cotton striped game with shorts and small mirror buttons in the Karl profile. Also impressive were the semi-bar organza trenches and a super safari jacket with removable

Everything could be used with a new bag, whose silver metallic mango had the shape of the beloved Karl cat, Choupette.

“This season feels like a tribute to Karl,” said Kun, who celebrated the founder with a rock party at the Palais de Tokyo, whose DJ was Paris Hilton, star of the new brand campaign. KL, in other words, is still happening in Paris.

Torishéju: Dumi debates with Dürer

Torishéju won the LVMH Savoir-Faire prize this month, and after witnessing his brave already beautiful collection this Wednesday, one can see why he deserved the award.

The designer of a thinking woman, Torishéju Dumi combines all kinds of references, military, industrial and utilitarian, with smart and coherent clothing. Like its excellent opening look in Naomi Campbell, an intelligent black wool jacket with an extended peplum and shoulders, suggesting a Chevalier armor.

He showed super light grooved wool t -shirts in managers combined with skirts with fresh asymmetric flyers; Rayados wool dresses perfectly drained with frayed hems; Or a fabulous second skin, raspberry leather, youth shirt and too long pants. Each look felt a bit artistic, but always plausible, the brand of a truly talented designer. A rare guy carried a striking priestly on the men's shirt fabric that mixed the sacred with the profane.

A theme of the Riffed collection about the art of Albrecht Dürer.

“Just as Albrecht Dürer once explored the tensions between the divine and the earthly, this collection turns its gaze towards the intersections of chaos and control, body and system, thought and shape,” Dumi wrote in his intellectual program.

Graduate from London College of Fashion and Central Saint Martins, of Nigerian-Brazilian origin and raised in London, Torishéju is a special talent. A designer who seems a lot. In a word, Torishéju has power of permanence and style.

Olivia von Halle: Copradante with cold costs

A collection of cooperative capsules that is destined to success is the link of Olivia von Halle with the costs of Hôtel, fisujos this week at the Paris bar of the Eternally great hotel in Paris.

Lila Liaisons, a renewed version of the best -selling pajamas silhouette of Von Halle, is the key to this collection of luxury clothing. It is accompanied by the Deneuve Liaisons Headscarf and Audrey Costs, a riff on the brand's eyes mask.

Made in the burning red of the costs, one could not avoid noticing the additional attention that the barmen, who used the upper part, were receiving in the Soirée.

The association marks the second with Olivia von Halle, the manufacturer of pajamas thoroughly, with a major league hotel. It is deduced on the Link of Olivia von Halle with the Carlyle to create a line of pajamas for the legendary Hotel Madison Avenue.

The costs collection is mainly made of a beautiful silk dévoré, with the pattern remarkably exhausted. The impression, born of a hand -drawn sketch in the London workshop of Olivia von Halle, plays with the cost codes, a meeting of the spirit of “Les Années Folles”, spelling wades of smoke “costs” and a soup of mallyness. Ideal, in other words, for the new, refined and sexy scanning fashion.

“I have always loved the idea of ​​converting a mood, a place, a feeling in a pajamas. And in costs, our pieces feel perfectly at home,” said Olivia. And in the house itself too.