In one of the two great debuts of Paris Fashion Week, the Zegna Group effectively relaunched the house of Tom Ford with the first Haider Ackermann collection presented great in advance on Wednesday night. And the initial jury response in the collection is in: it is a success.
The great and the good gathered within Pavillon Vendôme, a medium -sized space in the center of Paris, made on Prussian gray mirror walls with sidewalk seats and three tracks.
“I knew how the program was going to organize the first day I started this work,” said Haider always confident.
Pre-show the atmosphere was palpable. Ford makes a last minute entrance in the dark, sitting between Jared Leto and Anna Wintour. At least it appeared.
He's eighteen months ago, when his former man on the right Peter Hawkins made his debut as a designer in Tom Ford, Tom did not even appear. Cancel your last minute assistance after Hawkins made some criticisms less than judicious to Ford in an article at the New York Times.
Haider was much more circumspect before the show. And his collection was significantly stronger. Surely, Ackermann's ego has never been stained by a sensation of false modesty, even if he has the reputation of being one of the least workers of the important talent. But one could only admire his decision before the show of publishing a photo of himself in bed reading The Times, wrapped in a Tom Ford ad, on Instagram. They loved everyone.
The show began with a lot of blow: hyper -relocated leather looks with a transgression soup. All of them impeccably cut: perfect razor for girls; He taught motorcyclist jackets for boys; Redingtes with matching leather covers for rock stars; Surgeon zebras for fatal femme.
He cut wool banker costumes for hard girls; and double -sided dresses for Silicon Valley Unicorns breeders. His best tailoring was a Mohair double chest jacket sustained with a safety pin and finished with a white silk rose.
The makeup was a pale sinister spy, and the atmosphere of bad mood with a modernist soundtrack of Hitchcockian with “Good Night, Day” by Jóhan Jóhansson. For the night, Haider was covered with skill, but almost too reverentially towards the DNA Ford. Those of us who have attended a dozen or more firm of Ackermann know that he is capable of much more.
That said, this was a powerful statement, and very necessary for Zegna. It is important to realize that the Italian luxury group has presented a great bet in the future of Tom Ford's fashion house. Indeed, he paid about $ 150 million for a 20 -year license to the Tom Ford fashion and accessories division, which was never remarkably profitable. Ford's much bigger beauty and fragrance business is owned by Estée Lauder.
But in total, this was a very good collection, even if it is not excellent. But that was more than enough to feel another palpable feeling at the end of the program. Relief that Haider Ackermann in Tom Ford should be a success.
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