Cool Cubist at City Hall with Yohji Yamamoto; Picasso and PETA in Victoria Beckham; Cher and confusion at Vêtements, on a day full of shows at Paris Fashion Week on Friday.
Yohji Yamamoto: cubist style in the city hall
Well, there's nothing like seeing a great collection from a real designer, like Yohji Yamamoto, on Friday night in Paris.
By true designer we mean someone capable of creating a unique look and silhouette; become a consistent and genuine trend influencer; and an artist who can conjure beautiful images of women.
Which is precisely what Yohji did on a damp, damp, cold Friday afternoon inside Paris City Hall, packed with 1,500 professionals and fans, hundreds happy to witness a master in action.
Yohji Yamamoto played with cubism this season, adding fabric boxes, triangles, swirls and knots to some sensational coats and dresses. In a season of morning suits, Yamamoto created the most modern versions, cut with quadruple tails or fabric tentacles on the back.
The Japanese have always loved punk rock, and Yohji gave it a Scottish baronial touch with fabulous checks and tartans of border rebel princesses.
“The basis of fashion is often royalty, so why not the Scottish clans?” smiled Yohji, who took the longest bow of his life to immense applause.
Another Yamamoto trick: hiring young, often unknown models, recently arrived in Paris, who clearly feel empowered and passionate about their clothes. With the help of the season's most notable hair (mad witches, passionate Clytemnestra, devilish damsels), this was a huge hit.
In short, a fashion lesson taught by a design expert.
Victoria Beckham: Picasso and PETA
Two shows, both successful, by Victoria Beckham rounded out Friday's action with a collection that echoed Picasso on a day of densely packed and waterlogged style action in Paris.
This season, Victoria held her show at the Salomon de Rothschild Hotel, a garden mansion famous for hosting haute couture shows. A garden with high walls, where, however, three PETA activists managed to climb the catwalk and interrupt Beckham's first show.
La Beckham's big new idea was to work in multiple silhouettes: there were even three pant shapes. Most striking, a drop-crotch cargo pants in patent leather that elongated the leg.
His main source of inspiration was the closet, where a half jacket seemed suspended from the neck; or duffle coats became cloth portraits attached to the torso.
“There is also a mushroom story. “They're reminiscent of the padded details of a hanger,” Beckham added in a pre-show preview. Before pointing out a series of corsets, dresses and cocktails with padded underwires.
“I am very sorry to point with my crutch. I find them very empowering!” added the designer, who broke her ankle in February and took crutches.
She often adorned slinky party dresses with metallic squiggles, inspired by Picasso's luminous drawings. Although her best looks were shearling pieces with funnel necks and a large mini selection of Japanese denim, a new arrow in her arsenal. Completing an elegant show with chain dresses, like those in a shop window, and a chain print.
“It's exciting to come to Paris. Last year we announced that fashion, in its own right, is generating profits. “Beauty is doing incredibly well and I feel very proud to be building the house she has always dreamed of,” insisted Beckham, who served espresso martinis to guests at a post-show cocktail party.
Vêtements: The younger brother dives
Well, now there's complacency and there's acting like a worm, and Vêtements was definitely the latter this season.
Too late, too long, too loud and too big. So what if Cher sat in the front row?
The show started 50 minutes late after complete chaos at the gate, with thugs shouting in people's faces and drivers with their fists on car horns for minutes at a time on rue Cambon.
Too long, with three repetitive sections, where the models walked painfully dragging three-meter trains behind them. The strangest thing is that Georgina Rodríguez, who was wearing a version of her husband Christian's old Manchester United shirt, Ronaldo 7, turned it into a knitted dress with a train.
Too loud with thunderous techno music supporting a wild casting. And too big, since most people already know Vêtements designer Guram Gvasalia's elephantine versions of classic garments: funeral coats and bulletproof vests for men; columns of screen idols and great dresses for girls.
Their only new idea this season was inserting hula hoops into the shoulders and arms of jackets or huts to create an absurd cocoon effect. They were absurd.
The show began with Natalia Vodianova in a corset, a giant men's coat and huge pants, and ended with Guram greeting former 'Desperate Housewives' star Marcia Cross in a tacky red sequin dress. Between. There were plenty of oversized Margiela nips and a long fashion dirge, performed on the opposite side of the street from Chanel's headquarters.
Where Vêtements was able to learn a thing or two about organizing a fashion show.
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