Women of strong character take the stage at Paris Fashion Week with Carven, Barbara Bui and Isabel Marant

The Spring/Summer 2025 collections presented on the Paris catwalks this weekend highlighted the multifaceted nature and independent spirit of the modern woman, through strong yet refined ensembles. Particularly eye-catching were the offerings from three fashion houses, each led by a formidable creative director: Carven, Barbara Bui and Isabel Marant.

Carven invited guests to her historic home, an apartment on the fifth floor of 6 Rond-Point des Champs-Élysées, where founder Marie-Louise Carven first established her haute couture salon in 1945, just above her boutique. original. The attendees were distributed throughout the different rooms, which have remained practically unchanged since those days. With their aged parquet floors, vintage wallpaper and views of the Grand Palais, these spaces are now occupied by the studio and team of creative director Louise Trotter, who took the helm in 2023.

Walking onto the stage was like walking into an intimate family gathering. The layout, complete with a welcoming entrance hall, a cozy living room, a bedroom, a kitchen and even a slightly ajar closet, immediately created a homely, almost nostalgic atmosphere. The models seemed caught in a moment of indecision, as if they were hesitating whether to go out or stay inside. One was wrapped in a luxurious robe-style wool coat, while others, dressed in mules or slippers, were wrapped in what appeared to be casually arranged. oversized sheets or shirts, which evoke a feeling of effortless elegance. Some wore outfits that could have been taken straight from a grandmother's closet, such as an embroidered cotton jumpsuit, while elsewhere a dress whimsically constructed from pillowcases appeared.

Large rectangular panels of cotton, silk or denim were tied together with simple straps to create comfortable, flowy dresses and blouses, layered over delicate tunics. These garments flared gently at the back, as if they slid gracefully off the shoulders, giving a sense of casual elegance. Some tops were accented with voluminous peplums at the waist, adding a touch of movement to the otherwise minimalist monochrome silhouettes. The entire collection radiated a quiet sophistication, elevated by effortless refinement and subtle modernity.

With a few deft strokes, Louise Trotter modernized Madame Carven's classic sleeveless dresses into casual, casual pieces that embodied the spirit of freedom. She infused the collection with a sense of lightness through unstructured, buttonless jackets, wide-sleeved blouses, Bermuda shorts, shorts and boxy-cut blouses.

The details made the difference: tulle opera gloves, scarves with thick fringes tied at the ends, and cashmere coats hugged the models' shoulders. Other thoughtful touches included a row of pearls running down the neckline of a sleeveless faux fur top, continuing as a delicate necklace in the back, and a crystal chain adorning a pair of sleek black sunglasses.

Upon leaving, guests were invited to visit the boutique on the ground floor to explore more of the world of the Carven woman through a project curated by Trotter, featuring a selection of unique objects (chairs, lamps and vases) alongside works of art and books, created in collaboration with Joel Muggleton of LS Gomma Studio and Parisian collectors and creators David Miro and Tea Sirbiladze of Paris Image Unlimited.

For the summer 2025 season, Barbara Bui presented a complete wardrobe that seamlessly combined tailoring, denim, playful scarf motifs and luxurious evening wear. The show featured flowing lamé costumes that looked like they had been poured into molten silver. Draped gold knit dresses and sheer organza jackets and pants played with transparency, revealing the inner workings and construction details of each piece. “It's very pure, but irreverent, since you can see all the interiors and the structure of the jacket,” said the ever-vibrant designer, who organized the presentation at her headquarters and showroom in the Marais district of Paris.

The collection offered a variety of statement pieces and easy-to-wear basics, effortlessly mixed and matched, all infused with the quintessential rock-chic edge that has defined the Barbara Bui brand since its inception. A highlight was the reinvention of the classic banker's suit. The traditional silhouette was paired with a bodice made from the same striped fabric, while the iconic navy striped jacket was crafted from silk and detailed with zippers along the sleeves and back, creating a fresh, summery aesthetic. with a sensual touch.

This presentation also marked the debut of Barbara Bui's new gold jewelry collection, “Ekkaï,” created in collaboration with designer Aurélie Bidermann. The line, inspired by snake motifs, features a long necklace, a bold bracelet and an earring. “A mutual friend introduced us and we hit it off instantly. Their craftsmanship is of exceptional quality and I'm a fan of statement jewelry that radiates strength,” Bui shared.

“Aurélie's approach is more delicate and feminine, while mine is rooted in the energy of rock. We have combined our worlds beautifully,” she continued. The collection will officially launch in November in both brands' boutiques and e-stores, with prices ranging from €170 to €690.

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Isabel Marant concluded Sunday night with a high-energy show in the gardens of the Palais Royal. An eager crowd gathered at the entrance, hoping to see K-pop stars, as guests took their seats around the central fountain. Marant swapped his usual large tent for an outdoor track, enjoying the fresh air despite the recent drop in temperatures.

Undeterred by the cold, Isabel Marant effortlessly raised the temperature with her vibrant and energetic fashion. Her summer 2025 collection, steeped in exotic style, seemed tailor-made for sun-drenched destinations. To the rhythm of lively percussion, the models paraded down the catwalk, illuminated by a warm glow, as if emerging from the depths of a tropical jungle, dressed in ultra-short ensembles adorned with a riot of fringes and hanging threads, with cinched waists. with intricately crafted leather belts.

With bare legs and feet wrapped in gladiator sandals or fringed loafers, the models perfectly embodied a mix of safari chic, bohemian folklore and a touch of Native American influence. Dresses were daringly short, while leather microshorts glinted with metal studs in the dim evening light. Long fringes cascaded over poncho-like blouses, and bolero jackets were intricately embroidered with ethnic motifs that resonated throughout the collection on elaborate fringed dresses.

Suede took center stage, rendered in rich shades of black, camel, chocolate and burgundy. It was used to make elegant jackets, tailored trousers, structured shorts and mini dresses, all with delicate cut-out details reminiscent of intricate lace. Thin strips of leather crisscrossed along the collars and trailed sensually down the sides of the garments, adding a tactile, sensual element that felt both raw and refined.