New York-based designer Vivienne Tam sought to bring “a vision of neo-modern Chinese beauty and craftsmanship” to Paris for the fall show celebrating its 30th anniversary.
Basing her work largely on the side closure, full sleeves and high collar of the qipao, the designer distilled its proportions and features along a line that ran from traditional-looking versions and flirty minidresses to minimalist, elegant tunics and dresses made to order.
It was this last direction that produced the freshest results. Motifs taken from classical Chinese iconography, such as dragons and symbols of the five elements, were spread across silhouettes in the form of prints and embroidery.
Standouts included jacquard denim jackets and dresses that had a retro-cool vibe; a suit that Strike a balance between East and West on the nose thanks to graphic fabric closures that create eye-catching asymmetry and lightweight mesh dresses, a long-standing brand signature.
A final section focused on the brides, from red and gold options that reference Chinese traditions to a dress made of lace that weaves the Chinese character for love and the French “amour” in curly letters, in keeping with the metaphorical marriage of East and West of Tam.
