Published
January 27, 2025
Once again, Japanese creativity caught attention in Paris, on the fourth day of shows of the Masculine Clothing Fashion Week. T through the designers of Junya Watanabe, Maison Mihara Yasuhiro and Comme des Garçons Homme Plus. The three designers managed to transform their creative vocabulary for autumn/winter 2025-26, showing inventive and perfectly made collections.
Junya Watanabe prepared the stage on Friday morning. It is insurmountable in reorganizing the herd and reinterpreting the male clothing wardrobe of its label every season, which makes even the most functional and ordinary garments are completely desirable. This season, he took Deep America to his audience, where his models could easily be mixed without being noticed.
With caps (or cowboy hats) screwed in faces framed by a beard with strands and long hair, Watanabe's men seemed recorded by the hard work of life, since they stopped solidly put on their construction shoes, jeans dresses , sometimes short and rolled, a pictures and a leather jacket worn over time, in typical registrar looks. For next winter, Watanabe focused on an icon of American Apparel, the Mackinaw Cruiser jacket of the Finka brand.
Finkson was founded in 1897 in Seattle by Clinton C. F runicon, and initially used to equip gold diggers, then creating clothes for other types of outdoor workers as well. By ccfilson. The American brand brand .
The Mackinaw Cruiser jacket has remained practically unchanged since its first appearance. It is an excess of distinctive control wool equipped with several pockets, one of them sewn on the back, directly on the shoulders. Watanabe had fun with pockets and fins, appeared in a variety of materials, leather and colors. He also experienced with the front and rear of the jacket, which he designed with contrasting materials such as wool, denim, cotton, suede, leather, nylon, etc.
Similar variations were also used in denim pants of the collection, which incorporated wool inserts or control leather. As illustrated by cotton and leather jets in layers on a wool jug in large red and black checks, and on elegant office shirts with a regiment tie. For this collection, Junya Watanabe also collaborated with Levi's For Jeans and Paraboot, New Balance and Hainrich Dinkelacker for footwear.
In Maison Mihara Yasuhiro, the French rapper took a microphone to a desk at the end of the track, as if he were on a television studio. When the big screen behind him was backlighted, the entire backstage area of the program was revealed as a gloomy silhouette. Frequently, a melancholic mood permeated the show of the Japanese designer, still anchored to the grunge period of the 90s. Everything seemed a bit dusty, almost discolored. Such as the succession of military jackets in washing, worn and damaged cotton, or skillfully bleached jeans.
The silhouettes consisted of a random layer of gray fleece garments (hoods, t -shirts and sweaters), shirts to controls and jackets in flannel or thin corduroy. Lentejuelas and small geometric patterns in some ultrambagy runners and jeans were seen from distance such as dust or paint spots.
Mihara Yasuhiro gave a new turn to some of its classic elements, presenting a series of hybrid garments, destroyed, disassembled and then rebuilt with new proportions, often with a center of gravity biased. Pocket, so useful to wear the baguette!
A mixture of jackets and shirts became a skirt. Otherwise, a skirt of a pair of pants was cut. The lateral edges of a bomber jacket moved to the upper garment, replacing the necklace. A blue pady shirt flourished in the equivalent of a jacket in a denim set.
The Japanese designer sprayed touches of humor throughout the collection. Especially in their recreational accessories, such as small bags with a banana or an ice cream cone such as handles, boots formed as a handbag and luxury bags, for example, the black quilacious model with two golden chains … very Chanel. Models identical to those developed by the Spanish label opens last season.
Comme des Garçons Homme plus led to the fourth day of the Fashion Week in Paris in order to of your clothes.
Young soldiers, they really look more like the deserters, headed to the track towards the moving voice of Nina Simone, begging that “the wind blows through your heart.” It is perfectly illustrated by the new lamb shoes model, a kind of clown shoes with a tip raised upwards, which embodies the idea that the models were braking or walking back.
Cre with rasta dreadlocks under the helmets adorned with turbans and colorful flowers, the models carried uniforms that seemed to crumble. Forms, colors, camouflage prints, patterns … Kawakubo interrupted everything to its path. Official jackets with double golden buttons rows are transformed into redingtes that are used on wrinkled silk shirts. The pants were globested in swollen shapes, or shortened to become loose camping pants. To has been disassembled and rejigrated, narrow or elongated, adjusted, lightened, equipped with zippers: some jackets became rounded pants, and some long skirts ended up exploding with pockets.
The military appearance of the label presented the occasional brocade or floral fabrics. Khaki wool and cotton fabrics gradually mixed with textured velvet and denim, fiting in pockets and in the necklace of a blue striped shirt. A sample of Green Loden fabric was all that remained of the original garment in bright colored coats and jackets, while the pixelated multicolored shirts shone under some dark jackets.
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