Victoria Feldman and Tomas Berzins narrowed down their aesthetic for fall 2024 by focusing on basics with signature twists as identifiers. The vocabulary of lovers is often a reference for the designer couple, who this season was inspired by a visit to the Rodin Museum, more specifically by “The Kiss”, a marble sculpture that represents a couple hugging.
The juxtaposition inherent to the work of art, with the cold marble that contrasts with the intimacy of the gesture it portrays, translated into a multitude of games of draping and pleating, textures and combinations of mineral colors. “The collection is inspired by opposites, strong and soft, marble with draping,” Feldman said backstage before the show. “We wanted this season to create simple, very wearable looks.”
Tailored wool jackets and pants had asymmetrical draped panels that appeared knotted at the front, reflecting interlocking arms carved in stone, or structured folded tabs on the sleeves. Scarves were the key to the style, tied with a belt over a skirt to hide the breasts or combined with voluminous coats adorned with leather fringes.
The soft but structured silhouettes, which also included staples like jeans and a sailor sweater, were a departure from the reversible styles the pair has played with in recent years, although much of the outerwear could still be worn multiple ways. . “We want to focus on appearance and not function,” Berzins explained.
There was a marked return to leather when the duo nodded with their first collection a decade ago. With a wrinkled effect, it managed to imitate stone, while the boxy pants were worked in a delicate pink tone. There was also a cute cropped shearling jacket (new territory for designers) and statement pants made from a patchwork patchwork from the collection for the final look. For lovers of the Victoria/Tomás aesthetic, their collection was like a tender hug.
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