Kobi Halperin is glad that glamor has returned to the world's catwalks. “We are in a moment in fashion where we are becoming elegant again, which is very exciting for me,” said women's designer Emanuel Ungaro at his fall presentation. Playing with house references in a glamorous register, she was able to deliver what she summarized as “a very Ungaro collection.”
Inspired by Dalí’s “Meditative Rose” painting (as a child, the rose, which he sees as a symbol of sadness, sensuality and hope, was one of his favorite things to draw, he said), Halperin looked to Spain for inspiration. His moody floral prints this season were magnified and blurred “like the memory of a flower,” and lace motifs played an important role in his design lexicon.
The spectacular collection was worked almost exclusively in black, white, red and gold, with the aim of drawing attention to its luxurious details and layering.
Eveningwear was the focus, with bustier or corset dresses and matching skirts created with lace, draped satin or pleated chiffon and designed to be worn under matching blazers. Many looks featured 3D rose embroidery or petal-evoking ruffles that accentuated their lapels, necklines and hemlines.
The familiar silhouettes ticked the boxes Ungaro's customer is looking for, but Halperin changed things up a bit when it came to her fabric treatments, which included dévoré velvet lace and foil-coated guipure, the latter making a statement in flared trousers with ruffles and a matching dress. off shoulder top. He worked in a degrade In red and black, their pleated chiffon or lace skirts had a more contemporary touch.
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