Undercover, Rochas, Cecilie Bahnsen and Acne Studios light up Paris Fashion Week

Thursday saw an extraordinary day at Paris Fashion Week, showcasing women's ready-to-wear for Fall/Winter 2024. It was distinguished by standout moments, such as the stunning show presented by acclaimed Japanese label Undercover and the successful debut of Alessandro Vigilante, the new creative director of Rochas. Additionally, Danish designer Cecilie Bahnsen made waves by expanding her repertoire with her first leather offerings, while Swedish brand Acne Studios' stunning display left a lasting impression on attendees.

On this third day of women's shows, Undercover pulled out all the stops with a particularly captivating collection. For Fall/Winter 2024-25, Japanese designer Jun Takahashi curated the quintessential wardrobe of the contemporary multifaceted woman with “all-encompassing” pieces.

Takahashi redefined the fashion lexicon by innovatively reinventing the concepts of patchwork and hybrid clothing, deftly deconstructing and reconstructing them like a puzzle, with seemingly effortless delicacy. She sculpted modern silhouettes from fragments of garments, mainly from classics of the women's wardrobe, seamlessly fused to the point of being imperceptible. As the audience watched with apparent indifference, they barely noticed the first model walking barefoot onto the stage amidst the hubbub.

With a contemplative gaze, she moved gracefully as the silence enveloped her, dressed in a simple tank top and jeans that she hastily put on over beige wool tights, all perfectly integrated to form a single piece. In her hand, a camel-colored sweater, cuffed and showing the white cotton edges of a shirt, which she had not yet had time to put on properly. The designer, in her benevolence, sought to assist her in her daily race against time, offering her complete ensembles designed to navigate the various facets of her busy day. Thus, she presented options that ranged from the “wake-jog-work” set, to the “sports-work-children” set, to the “dinner-party-sleep” set, among others.

These moments, repeated incessantly every day, were eloquently and artfully narrated by the voice-over of filmmaker Wim Wenders, reciting his insightful prose entitled “Watching a Working Woman”, which is somewhat reminiscent of the iconic song 'My Way'. After all, what woman hasn't dreamed of going out in her pajamas? Jun Takahashi made that dream come true, donning a ribbed sweater and distressed jeans over satin pajamas.

See catwalk

Elsewhere, tailored banker pants wrapped around an ethereal wool jumpsuit, combining sophistication with comfort. A voluminous cardigan cascaded elegantly over a faux fur dress, evoking the casual charm of a gray tracksuit. A polo shirt layered over a turtleneck sweater perfectly complemented a skirt with sequins or shiny fringes. These fringe trims delicately adorned the hem of a coat or the leg of a trouser, gradually intensifying into a luminous range of copper or gold tones, echoing the layered textures throughout.

What was most intriguing was the seamless integration of various functionalities within a singular garment, creating a completely novel and distinctive everyday wardrobe. The designer played with trompe-l'oeil effects, as others had done before him, but without any heaviness, both literally and figuratively. In fact, his new uniform was made of lightweight knits and fabrics, often of minimal density.

Even a rose in the pocket of one of the looks looked simply patched together. As for accessories, they ranged from small leather bags adorned with metallic spikes to transparent tulle totes of different sizes, which perfectly compartmentalize essentials and everyday experiences, alternately accommodating market purchases, baguettes, water bottles, bottles of wine and gym mats.

For his Rochas debut, Alessandro Vigilante presented a refined collection that pays homage to the house's origins, featuring opulent jacquard wool bathrobes and coats with yellow and brown stripes. Shimmering satin dresses evoked 1920s glamour, while a tailored suit with large faux lynx fur pockets paired perfectly with high heels. Green satin duvets were transformed into cocoon coats and bomber jackets, enveloping the wearer in a sense of effortless luxury.

The Rochas woman enjoyed the art of blending genders, juxtaposing black lace stockings with a futuristic wool skirt suit adorned with shoulder pads. Alternatively, she adorned a gray flannel men's jacket over a skirt intricately embroidered with twisted silver PVC fringe, a testament to the meticulous craftsmanship of the house's artisans, which required 72 hours of dedicated work.

Among the guests at this inaugural presentation, the founder's daughter, Sophie Rochas, said enthusiastically: “This is the most successful and beautiful catwalk I have seen since I took the reins of the house. The most couture, the most innovative, mixing the Rochas cuts, techniques and colors,” he exclaimed.

“It borrowed both the colors and stripes that Marcel Rochas used a lot, which I mixed with my own tones, like the electric blue seen on a pair of glamorous gloves. My goal was to reimagine the essence of the Rochas woman in the contemporary context, which I did inspired by a 1939 photograph by Carlo Mollino that presents a woman dressed in satin,” explained the designer.

“I also used lace, but as a second skin, accentuating its sensuality by incorporating Chantilly lace motifs, a choice reminiscent of Marcel Rochas' use of the same lace to decorate the packaging of his 'Femme' perfume. It was true marketing Pioneer! And beyond that, he revolutionized fashion with the invention of the guêpière, while before only corsets were worn,” says Alessandro Vigilante, delving into the house's extensive archives, drawing inspiration mainly from the period between 1925 and 1950, taking advantage of art. Deco and art nouveau influences, imbued with a touch of surrealism.

See catwalk

Cecilie Bahnsen expanded her creative horizon this season, moving away from the confines of lace and transparencies. For the Fall/Winter 2024 season, along with the brand's signature ethereal and romantic dresses, she placed greater emphasis on sleeved pieces and outerwear. The additions of a denim set reminiscent of those offered last season stand out, as well as trench coats, canvas jackets, cable knit sweaters and a series of leather pieces, a material that the brand introduces for the first time in this collection.

The jacket and gathered flared skirt ensembles were meticulously crafted from distressed black faux fur, with shiny highlights. The same material was used to make a strapless minidress with thin straps and a jacket-dress with a peplum, puffed on the sides, made of chocolate-colored leather.

Among the standout pieces was a strapless silver dress seemingly made from aluminum foil cut into tiny flowers, as well as a beige trench coat that bloomed into a myriad of perforated flowers, revealing glimpses of its silver lining.

Meanwhile, Acne Studios announced a change of style with the presentation of a dynamic and powerful collection on Thursday night. Against a backdrop of pristine white, dotted with giant beanbags and armchairs made from scrap rubber tires by Estonian artist Villu Jaanisoo, models stormed the runway in monochrome black or white ensembles. They showcased ultra-short leather or denim silhouettes, paired with heels and high socks, accented by futuristic glasses and chrome metal jewelry that evoked automotive aesthetics.

Designer Jonny Johansson adopted a clean, minimalist aesthetic, subverting traditional archetypes of women's clothing, from the fur stoles that adorn the neck to the iconic little black dress. The Acne Studios woman wore sheath dresses or light knit dresses, complemented by elegant silk shirts with raised collars that spiraled with a semblance of elasticity, harmoniously paired with trousers.

The highlight of the collection was the high-necked bodysuit, provocatively exposed at the back by a long zipper, echoing the bold allure of the leather pieces. These included outerwear pieces sculpted into rigid, rounded shapes, distressed leather ensembles, second-skin nappa garments, and even a neoprene diving suit, each of which embodied the brand's avant-garde spirit.