Inspired by “Men and Women,” a series of photographs taken by Bruce Weber in the 1980s, Mitsuru Nishizaki explored the notion of luxury through the layering of precious fabrics. Like contemporary urban nomads, he wrapped his models in fabric overlays in a play of contrasts between tailored structures and spacious, indulgent volumes.
Its combination of masculine pinstripes, formal suedes commonly used for evening wear, matte wools and satin nylon taffeta was worked in a palette of neutrals interspersed with dusty pale yellow and mulberry, the largely tone-on-tone style highlighting its meticulousness. attention to detail. .
Heavy, fringed wool scarves were fused with wide, half-length sleeves on coats. The sloping square dimensions of short, wide jackets and capes, dotted with buttons and zipper details, structured their silhouettes and amplified volumes.
A novel version of the double-breasted jacket featured slits on the sides, creating a bib-like panel in the front and allowing the arms to emerge from underneath. Double sleeves on certain silhouettes enhanced the voluptuous approach. Meanwhile, Nishizaki wore apron skirts to create similar proportions on the lower half of the body. In the more urban silhouettes, her shiny raincoats had slightly gathered seams, increasing their dimensions but adding a feeling of lightness when walking down the runway.
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