Translated by
Nicola Mira
Published
June 27, 2024
The men's looks for next summer that emerged from the collections on display in London, Florence, Milan and Paris from 7 to 23 June were characterised by effortless, casual elegance, with understated, comfortable textures and simple, uncomplicated cuts. Men will prefer a smart, flexible wardrobe consisting of a few basic items: a suit, trousers made of thick, durable fabric, shorts, of course, V-neck polos and casual shirts, some light knitwear, a summer coat and a nylon blouse. Plus the essential beachwear essentials. The looks are a little scruffy, with a monochrome palette of neutral tones and, at most, checks and stripes. Logos and monograms are out. The Riviera trend, with its slightly old-fashioned elegance, is very much in, and sleeveless tops have supplanted T-shirts. The current economic situation has evidently prompted fashion brands to design more commercial collections.
1. Striped suits, reinterpreted
Suits are more than ever the staple of the men's wardrobe, but they are worn in a more relaxed manner, unbuttoned, over a simple T-shirt. Striped suits, emblem of men's formal attire, have been subverted and reinterpreted with a cool tone. They came in pajama style at LGN, as jacket and shorts sets at Amiri, as casual blouses with frayed hems at Magliano. Simon Cracker made them in turquoise. Hed Mayner transformed them into tunics, combined with a workwear-style vest with pockets, while Kidsuper presented a patchwork suit made from strips of gray striped fabric. In a more fun version, at Moschino, they came equipped with pockets to hold a variety of office paraphernalia, from pens to notebooks, access cards, canteens and more. Even Giorgio Armani opted for a relaxed vibe, with his suits over a V-neck sweater.
2. Shorts
In recent years, shorts, especially Bermuda shorts, have replaced trousers in suits, achieving mixed success among consumers, as switching to shorts is still a difficult decision for some. Shorts will be very much in the spotlight in the summer of 2025: in extremely sunny versions, almost like swim trunks made of cotton or light nylon, with slightly fitted cuts or with rather wide volumes and high-quality fabrics for a more formal atmosphere, as well as in the harder, BDSM-style version in lace-up leather seen at Dsquared2. Although cycling shorts are still very much in fashion, of course.
3. Tank tops
The classic white cotton vest with thin straps remains a must-have item in men's fashion. It will be everywhere next summer, and it has definitely replaced the t-shirt. In Bluemarble it was even worn over a t-shirt. It appeared in some super chic outfits, for example, under luxurious suits at Brioni and many others, and peeking out from under the shoulder of a baggy sweater at Fendi. At Martine Rose, the vests looked more like camisoles, with slits and lace details, or tight-fitting athlete t-shirts. Dsquared2 introduced latex vests and Neil Barrett in a two-in-one version.
4. Suede jackets
Suede has made notable progress in the summer 2025 menswear collections. It is used to make blouses, jackets, shorts and casual pants. Zegna used this lightweight leather with a velvety touch to create a classic formal jacket with fine tailoring, but in an unlined version and without using any other material, with a view to future recycling.
5. Raffia and weaving techniques.
Raffia, straw, wicker and rattan: this season, designers are competing in audacity and demonstrating their craftsmanship by adopting surprising weaving techniques. Like Magliano, who cut the edge of a wicker basket to turn it into a belt. As well as appearing on many accessories, such as the raffia chapkas seen at Bluemarble and the countless basketry bags and oversized picnic baskets that appear here and there, weaving techniques have also been used to make jackets and shirts. Notably at Dolce & Gabbana, who used the characteristic weave of a Thonet chair to make, among other things, a jacket.
6. Coastal environment
The new men's looks for next summer will be based on a chic Riviera style with all-white outfits (Dolce & Gabbana, White Mountaineering), a small scarf hanging around the neck or in the pocket, a navy blue sweater on the shoulders and boat shoes, for example. . a preppy and slightly retro Dolce Vita feel. The coastal trend has the wind in its favor, with loose camisoles and shorts, many blouses with sailor collars and terry towels worn as sarongs around the waist (seen at Magliano, Doublet, Moschino and CREOLE). The effect is enhanced by the flip-flops that are worn even, and especially with a suit, as a sign of supreme indifference.
7. Sailor striped sweaters
Following the powerful call for the sea from designers, striped sailor-style sweaters are back with a vengeance. The classic Brittany sweater with navy and white stripes is the must-have piece for a directional look. Of course, designers have given it a new twist. For example, by adopting fine wavy stripes, as on the fitted sweaters at Prada and MSGM, or with black gondolier-style stripes at Dolce & Gabbana. At Dunhill, a sailor-striped sweater was worn under a smart cotton jacket. And it was transformed into a comfortable ribbed jumper at Wales Bonner, System Studios and White Mountaineering.
8. Mesh fabrics
Mesh fabrics will be super directional next summer, adding a light feel to the silhouette. Each collection featured garments made from this openwork, light and breathable material, which is used above all in tank tops, especially crochet, as in Kenzo, where they were adorned with embroidered applications. But it was also used to make openwork tunics and handbags. Gucci, Amiri and Zegna presented polo shirts in mesh fabric, elegant and sexy. Mesh and other types of high-tech fabrics were also used for tank tops with an athletic, high-performance feel.
9. nylon
Airy, feather-light and protective, nylon is the most popular material for summer 2025, along with lightweight high-tech fabrics. It is a perfect option for the outdoor activity log that increasingly plays a leading role in men's fashion. Lightweight, sheer nylon is the fabric of choice for windbreakers, a must-have for men who travel a lot, but it's also used for shorts, blouses, bomber jackets and the ubiquitous joggers. And of course for raincoats, which have replaced coats. As perfectly illustrated by Lemaire and Dries van Noten, who presented raincoats in a light, wrinkled and colorful material.
10. soccer jerseys
Right in the middle of Euro 2024, and on the eve of the Paris Olympic Games, a sports note was almost inevitable. Designers have opted for football-style jerseys, following the trend of football fans that is becoming increasingly popular. There is nothing more chic than wearing a t-shirt with the colors of a luxury brand, for example with the logos of Louis Vuitton or Fendi Roma. Other designers have fun reinterpreting the kits of their favorite teams or joining forces directly with the clubs, as 3.Paradis did with PSG, launching a special edition jersey. As for soccer balls, many of them appeared on the catwalks, even transformed into clothing, as at Moschino.
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