The minimalist sophistication of Carven and the rock elegance of Ann Demeulemeester

Amid a rainy weekend, Paris Fashion Week revealed two distinct fashion narratives on Saturday. Carven's Fall/Winter 2024-25 showcase embodied sophistication and practicality, while Ann Demeulemeester's collection exuded gender-fluid rock star charm.

The refined elegance of Carven and Louise Trotter

Louise Trotter, Carven's first creative director since founder Carmen de Tommaso, continues to subtly revitalize the brand, evident in her second collection, which effortlessly blends modernity with timeless sophistication.

Beneath an initial façade of understated elegance, the Carven woman radiates a sense of chic indifference, enhanced by opera gloves and multi-strand pearl necklaces.

Each garment was meticulously crafted from flannels and lightweight wools, including caraco blouses, long sleeveless dresses, and textured fabrics such as washed, bouclé, or brushed wool. Double-breasted coats, mid-length straight skirts, oversized double-breasted jackets, sleeveless tops and wide-leg pants added a contemporary touch to classic silhouettes.

The British designer manipulated proportions, subtly modernizing the collection with slightly oversized cuts and unconventional details. He softened the shoulders of long trench coats and jackets, transformed men's jackets into short coats, added volume to draped skirts and accentuated necklines. Large buttons adorned the skirts, while the blouses and blouses were cleverly designed to appear inside out, with the collar prominent in the front and the back open.

Designed to be worn effortlessly from day to night, these versatile pieces exude confidence and provide unparalleled comfort. The silhouettes, rendered in neutral tones (grey, black, brown, beige), were given a playful touch with subtly quirky accessories, including cushion-shaped bags, white rectangular clutches with envelope-shaped pleats, flat satin boots which are used as socks and fluffy bags. cotton ballet flats.

This season, Carven presented its new logo, conceived in collaboration with the English graphic designer and artistic director Peter Miles. It was inspired by the brand's original label dating back to its creation in 1945, along with its historic and enduring direction.

The rock'n'roll spirit of Ann Demeulemeester

At Ann Demeulemeester, Stefano Gallici presented his second collection, aiming to delve into the essence of the brand instead of simply revising its established codes.

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Returning to its roots, Ann Demeulemeester's collection revived the brand's signature rock'n'roll spirit, drawing inspiration from the iconic American singer Patti Smith, the Belgian designer's muse.

With tousled hair adorned with a delicate beaded chain and an androgynous touch infused with punk sensibility, the models embodied the spirit of the legendary '70s singer. Their sunken cheeks and solemn demeanor evoked images of tormented poets, dressed in the attire of the rock stars of yesteryear: long coats, voluminous jackets adorned with wide astrakhan collars and thick wool socks tucked into sturdy motorcycle boots.

The collection featured timeless pieces like jackets, floor-length skirts, layered sets and chunky knits (presented in distressed and perforated variations) that have long been synonymous with the brand's allure. Additionally, jackets, vests, crisp white shirts and long, flowing ribbons that fall elegantly to the floor, hallmarks of the brand's neo-romantic aesthetic, were reimagined in multiple iterations of straps, resembling apron-like tunics.

Models radiated effortless cool in a variety of perforated wool dresses, supple leather jackets, khaki pea coats and military-inspired capes, along with classic suits and unexpected lingerie-inspired ensembles that included culotte shorts, camisoles and ethereal slip dresses in pale pink silk. or satin, complemented with feminine bags.

As founder Ann Demeulemeester observed from the front row, her approving smile said it all. “I really liked it, especially the overall vibe. The narrative was captured perfectly. I couldn't be happier,” said the esteemed designer, who founded her eponymous fashion house in 1982 and retired at the end of 2013. In 2020, The brand was acquired by the Milanese retail entrepreneur Claudio Antonioli.