The Federation of Haute Couture and Fashion has revealed the new provisional calendars for this summer's menswear and haute couture catwalk seasons in Paris, which have been delayed due to preparations for the Olympic Games. The haute couture season features the debut of Ardazaei and the return of Thom Browne and Charles de Vilmorin.
The season of haute couture shows, the highest expression of international fashion, will open on Monday, June 24 in the morning with Schiaparelli and will end on Thursday, June 27 in the afternoon with Ardazaei, a new guest member of the official calendar. Haute Couture Week is traditionally celebrated in the first week of July.
Although the season will also welcome back Charles de Vilmorin, the French talent known physically as Yves Saint Laurent's double, and Thom Browne, both as guest members.
In all, a total of 30 houses feature in the haute couture calendar, demonstrating how dynamic haute couture remains in Paris, the only legally authorized venue for a haute couture season in the world. Thus, Browne, despite being president of the Council of Fashion Designers of America, the equivalent of the Federation in the United States, shows haute couture in Paris, but ready-to-wear in New York.
“The decision to delay Haute Couture Week by one week was made precisely one year ago, at the end of April 2023. The reason behind this measure was our anticipation of the upcoming Olympic and Paralympic Games and the need to avoid possible overlaps. between our events. and the Paris Games. “This meticulous preparation has been a collaborative effort with the dedicated French public authorities, including the Prefecture of Police, the Olympic Organizing Committee, the Paris City Council and the Ministry of Culture,” the executive president of the Federation, Pascal Morand.
The four-day couture season includes such luminary brands as Christian Dior, Chanel, Giorgio Armani Privé, Balenciaga, Fendi and Jean-Paul Gaultier. Since Jean-Paul retired, his house has been presented in a new format, inviting a new guest couturier each season. This June it is the turn of Nicolas Di Felice, the brilliant and talented designer from Courrèges.
“The provisional calendar of Paris Fashion Week for menswear has 37 shows and 35 presentations, while the provisional calendar for Haute Couture has 30 shows. This is proof that the prospect of the Olympic Games has not affected the presence of the Houses, which is massive,” Morand emphasizes.
June will be an especially intense month for Di Felice, who will also host a performance in Courrèges during the six days of the men's season. That season begins on Tuesday morning, June 18, with a joint Bachelor of Arts exhibition at IFM, the leading fashion school in Paris, and ends on Sunday evening, June 21, with Taakk, the prominent Japanese conceptual brand founded by Takuya Morikawa.
An action-packed men's fashion week featuring big name draws like Louis Vuitton (featuring Pharrell Williams' third show for LV), Issey Miyake, Rick Owens, Dior Homme, Balmain Homme, Comme des Garçons Homme Plus, Loewe, Hermès, Dries Van Noten and Sacai. . Plus, the return of Bianca Saunders, Arturo Obegero, CREOLE, Etudes Studios and Y-3, the hyper-influential partnership between Yohji Yamamoto and German sports powerhouse Adidas. And it presents the debut of the Berlin magazine 032c.
Paris has always been considered Primus Inter Paris, or first among equals, when it comes to big fashion seasons, a position the Federation is determined to maintain.
“The success of Paris Fashion Week is based on seven key factors: the notable presence of the most recognized French and international luxury brands and designers, alongside the most promising emerging talents; the strength of French fashion and luxury groups; a well-structured ecosystem encompassing press offices, production companies, prestigious awards and the role of the Institut Français de la Mode as an educational leader; the fundamental role of the Federation in coordinating the calendar and in the selection and support of brands; a great cultural and economic event; close collaboration with public authorities such as the Prefecture of Police, the City of Paris, the Ministry of Culture; and, finally, the undeniable and enduring “Parisian flavor” infused with fashion tradition, haute couture and artistic heritage,” Morand insisted.
As in recent seasons, several women's ready-to-wear brands will join these seasons. Like Patou, who has confirmed that she will present a women's fashion show on Monday, June 27 at 5 p.m. While last January, the Alaïa house presented women's ready-to-wear – and one of the most acclaimed collections of recent years around the world – on Tuesday night during the haute couture session.
Furthermore, the number of important foreign couturiers and designers who come to Paris to show remains very notable. Like the inaugural day of haute couture, when each of the eight couturiers was born abroad (chronologically, American, Dutch, Lebanese, Italian, Indian, American, Spanish and Italian), even if some create for a house founded in France .
At all times, Paris is careful to establish contacts with London, Milan and New York when the dates of the catwalk seasons in the four great fashion capitals are discussed.
“There is a historical order, a sequence of major fashion weeks around the world, which is essential to maintain as it shapes an entire ecosystem. This framework mobilizes fashion professionals in a movement that must be coordinated and coherent. This global organization is naturally coordinated with the Camera Nazionale de la Moda Italiana, the British Fashion Council and the Council of Fashion Designers of America,” says diplomat Morand.
Since Morand's appointment in 2016, the Federation has radically revamped its website and is planning further changes.
“We have brought structural innovations to the Federation website that reflect the ever-changing nature of our industry and the acceleration of digitalization on a more global level. The appeal of the Official Paris Fashion Week Calendar is evidenced by half a million visitors and 3.5 million page views during the last women's ready-to-wear PFW in March. Which is completed by our partnership with YouTube and Tencent, which brings two billion additional views,” said Morand.
The focus will remain on expanding the spaces for members and accredited members on the Federation's website to provide personalized services and resources. While enriching exclusive content offerings, including Insider magazine and the Catwalk Calling podcast, featuring insights and interviews with industry figures. The Federation, the governing body of French fashion, also recently launched a platform dedicated to its members for the organization of PFW and HCW in relation to the Olympic Games, offering access to public resources and personalized notes edited by the Federation, with a connection safe.
“Ultimately, the position of Paris Fashion Week and Haute Couture Week derives primarily from the exceptional creative talent demonstrated here each season. We live in an era in which the combination of creativity and innovation is crucial and we will continue to innovate and prepare for the future,” concluded Morand.
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