Rick Owens and Schiaparelli became neighbors on Thursday night, at least in terms of their shows, and both presented blunt collections in contiguous buildings with a view to SENA. Christopher Esber was shown in the morning complex, and time in a Gothic church.
Schiaparelli: Paris Texas
Ride with the cowgirl. Daniel Roseberry returned to his youth in Texas this season and the result was his most concise and commercial collection for Schiaparelli's house.
Although he was very wild of Western, there were nothing hands hired in this clothes. Instead, it was a remarkable meeting of the sophistication of Big Country Cool and Paris.
Gigi Hadid placed everyone's attention in the opening look: a bright suit, with cattle baron pants, cowboy boots and a blazer with extended leather. All supported by crocodile tail earrings and gold -plated master -plated ring strands.
Roseberry argued in his program points out that the women who know and dress “rarely, if ever, dress for women.” And Hadid could really love his appearance, by the authority and dominance he taught.
A burning rodeo pilot soon continued with white corset/t -shirt and black leather pants, three cowboy belts wrapped around his waist. He looked simply sensational.
A subsequent sheriff lady in Houndstooth reflected Schiap's surrealist roots through the gigantic shoulders. Like the jacquard anthracite opera or the layers reviewed in a circle used with imitation diamond rings, Daniel showed at night.
While a selection of dresses that embrace figures with snake -scale effects, accessories with huge evil and hanging gold lock caused a wave of OOHS and AAH of the three rows of the guests. In an intelligent movement, Daniel has lightened hardware, a key element in his vision of the DNA of the Schiap brand, which makes it easier to use.
The models that pose in front of several proscenians reflected on the deep battery carpet track. All driven by a soundtrack of the country and the west with Brandi Carlile and Lainey Wilson.
Before the climax with the ideal final appearance: a crocodile top Trompe l'Oeil with festoneted pearl ornaments on black leather ranch and triple belts with the largest buckle of a horseshoe. Used by this season's favorite model, Mona Tougaard, the Turkish-Danish-Somali model that closed Chloé in the morning and Schiaparelli tonight.
Rick Owens: Cardinal out of time
The high priest of Haute Rick Owen fashion served his last fashion ceremony just before Schiaparelli, an exhibition of a nomadic style of God of Rock.
Emphasizing that idea, Owen's soundtrack focused on a alive peripatetic rock god, Iggy Pop, and its rock anthem agitator, “mass production.”
The Rick's show invitation was a black and white photo with him with a horse in a parking lot, underlining the itinerant rebel mood.
The overwhelming idea of Owens for next winter were the imperial necklaces that rose to six inches on the shoulder. Seen in a large number of white leather flight jackets; Ecru Pony Akin Bombers; Plenipotentiaries long coats and difficult redingtos. Rick also broke a new land with a trio of Mille Feuilles leather jackets, which will surely turn on a new trend.
His cast raising the audience in the show of the Tokyo Palais space on the shores of the Seine. The current nerve center of Paris Fashion Week with more than a dozen shows this season.
Each model calculates in its platform boots with Perspex Signature heel. Drumming a little as they ran the dusty track. Everything felt far from the recent spectacular Rick Cecil B. Demille, even if those shows took place 30 meters away in the esplanade of the Art Institute.
An ancient ceremony feeling, a meeting of similar minds to give a message was always present. Before an equally imminent Rick, Rick, the platform, took a languid arch. The fashion cardinal out of time who asked us to go alone.
Christopher Esber: tension and release of the Andam winner
He felt as half of Paddington and Bondi Beach appeared for the Thursday show of Christopher Esber, the last great hope of Australian fashion.
Esber's career has been a slow boiling for several years, and this program was announced as its breakup event. The young Australian won the Andam award last July and dozens of editors, influential and fans of Note sat in collapse chairs in the show, held inside the Palais de Tokyo.
The set became a undulating clue, with large misming curtains, like a rusty tin warehouse in Parramatta, breaking his eyes.
Clothing itself was a testimony of Esber's designer skills. It clearly has a lot of talent, even if the multiplicity of ideas caused the show.
What stood out were excellent technical taffeta skirts, fabulous Ruchado Leather cocktails and small frayed black dresses. Esber is not far behind when it comes to draping, while his elephant leg pants had a lot of bravery.
But, asymmetric dresses and Spangly cocktails felt a bit out of distance. And the staging of the show meant that the cast continued to disappear before it barely saw them, preventing the show from taking off.
Time: The last Korea brand that occurs
A brand that is worth paying attention is time, a Korean brand that presented a very concise collection of polished urban sports on Thursday.
Presented before a 50 -meter -long photo of a desert landscape inside the College Des Bernardins, a remarkable Gothic Church late on the left shore near Notre Dame.
Suggesting a classic road movie and a feeling of exploration seen in clothes, mainly intelligent modern outer clothes for a woman on a trip. Composed of some cold parkas or false hipster = large coats, combining them with soft sweetlands and knitted lots.
“A trip back to childhood,” was the creative director of the title time that Choi Jung gave to the collection.
The Brother of Time is the system. Both have been shown in Paris during the last seasons of Paris, each of them showing very plausible and elegant clothes.
In a word, it is the right time for time.
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