The second debut of Paris Fashion Week this season was Sarah Burton's first collection for Givenchy's house, which turned out to be an unqualified success.
An intimate debut presented on a sunny Friday morning inside the halls of Givenchy's historic headquarters in Avenue George V. Although he rounded everything in pristine, including the stairs, providing a surprisingly clean slate for Burton's vision.
Givenchy and Burton continue to be a magnet for the stars, with a front row from the list that included Gwendoline Christie, Rooney Mara, Joseph Quinn, Ryan Destiny, Raye and Kit Connor, all Givenchy dressed by Sarah Burton for the occasion.
“I wanted a blank page. When I came here, I found a beautiful building with all kinds of walls, like small boxes. So I said: 'Can we start some boxes?'” Burton told Fashion Network Post-Show.
Burton included many references to Hubert de Givenchy, from his Bettina blouse and crunchy tailoring to his small divine black dresses for Audrey Hepburn. But by debuting with great authority, the British designer has already made his own French house of Givenchy.
He opened with a respectful assent, an upper black network printed with 'Givenchy 1958', the year of the foundation of the house. Although even here, Hubert's work with the sexy semi-barra fabric had subtly subverted, following that with pink yellow and canary leotards dubbed elegantly in the neck, haute couture style.
Burton's tailoring skills were in the foreground in the bold double -chest suits and the waist redings with finished finishes. From time to time, he infused scripts of pure Parisian Chic, from a double -sided double -sided back coat perfectly cut and fall to a sexy motorcyclist jacket like a short cocktail.
Burton joined Givenchy last year after almost three decades working for the house built by Alexander (Lee) McQueen, starting in 1996, when Lee was also the dressmaker in Givenchy.
“I wanted to return to Givenchy's silhouettes, that is the backbone of this house. But I also wanted to cover everything that is a woman today. A time when you want to feel powerful, sexy, or fragile, or vulnerable. I wanted Once in a way of the models of the models.
A sense of intelligent humor was also apparent, from a remarkable top of multiple springs, used miraculously, to a great compact cocktail dress of several makeup that caused ironic smiles.
“In my head, I imagined Bettina Graziani (Hubert's favorite model) spilling her bag in the workshop, and splashing dust puff pastry, makeup boxes and some jewelry,” Burton smiled.
The result was the new freshest jewelry set this season: Swarovski Swarovski slopes, crystal knuckle earrings, knotted silver chokers, pending the size of a golf ball and bold and thick abstract abstract bracelets. In a show, Burton invented a completely new commercial category in which Givenchy had previously been absent, which adds to the feeling that this debut was a significant victory for Sidney Toledano, CEO of LVMH Fashion Group, and Alessandro Valenti, who became CEO of Givenchy last year.
Burton also assumed many risks, reinventing the Bettine blouse as a sexy night shirt and reinterpreting Hubert's inflated sleeve in a fENALEY version with not linked leather sleeves with a mini bra.
The next is Couture, although Burton is more likely to build his team. As in his mandate in McQueen, he wants to create workshops with postgraduate young people, using patterns cutters of “the incredible schools they have here in Paris.”
The program was the last step in a quite remarkable race for Burton, who joined McQueen immediately after the university. She became her wife to the right before assuming the position of designer in her death in 2010. In her first months in McQueen in the mid -90s, she remembers having taken the Eurostar to bring “pieces of shows, such as Robots Flashing”, of London to show in Givenchy Couture shows in Paris.
When asked to define Givenchy DNA, Burton replied:
“I think wherever you go, you have to tell your own story. Establish what the house represents and then interpret what you want to say with feeling, trust and emotion,” he concluded.
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