Rules of creativity with Niccolò Pasqualetti, Duran Lantink, Ottolinger, Athlein

The women of the Paris Fashion Week are coming to an end, but continues to present interesting surprises. On Sunday, he exhibited inventive collections of several emerging labels, all highlighting this season for his innovative research and an increasingly sophisticated appearance. As those presented by Niccolò Pasqualetti, Duran Lantink, Ottolinger and Athlein.

In his second show in the Parisian calendar, Pasqualetti confirmed that he is a talented designer with a collection that was elegant and indifferent, enriched by a touch of haute couture. The appearance had an extremely contemporary sensation, and presented classic articles reinterpreted through unusual constructions and impeccable cuts, each silhouette was more attractive by a small special turn.

The skirts, dresses and coats were made of more or less assembled cloth stripes, their borders often without seams. But the genuine discharge experience could be envisioned under this apparent simplicity and improvisation. Everything fell so, thanks to thorough attention to the deconstruction and drape, the asymmetries and the thorough details. Pasqualetti harmoniously mixed the most disparate materials.

A leather double with flyers combined with a skirt embroidered with bright rods, the appearance high by a maxi leather stole. A gray wool blade, apparently balanced on one shoulder, transformed into an elegant minimalist dress, the neck of the model covered by a removable grooved neck that extends in a plastron, in which four glass blocks inside a fine mesh acted as a necklace.

The pants were wide, the soft and loose sweaters, the coats that are wrapped as pitches. After a series of austere looks opening in total Black, the collection was all light and purity, for example, the Pearl Sheer robe, and ended with a sequence of more experimental and unbridled elements.

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Duran Lantink captivated his audience with an ultra inventive and high quality collection full of great ideas and funny peculiarities, such as the flesh -colored silicone shirt that reproduces a muscular chest with male fish, used by the beautiful brunette that opened the show and its bendea with a great wound.

The Dutch designer, a serial winner in the most prestigious fashion contests who is scheduled to become the next creative director of Jean Paul Gaultier, surpassed himself while transforming his wardrobe by presenting new forms and constructions. Apparently classic pants and skirts overflowed on the sides, are used low at the waist and kept in place by an amazing technical feat.

In some cases, the upper section of the pants was removable, it simply joined the waist for a belt, leaving the buttocks exposed in the back, while the legs of the model were locked up by the back of the thighs at the feet. The same principle applied to the pleated skirts that became double, one used as normal and the other attached in the front. And to the wide rectangular control skirts that were simply fixed to the front as aprons. The shirts upside down, their free hung sleeves, also transformed into skirts.

This season, Lantink also presented a variety of printed patterns that mixed and combined with pleasure. As animal print (snake skin, zebra, leopard and cow leather) and camouflage patterns. The collection presented some of the typical silhouettes of the label, with rounded and flourishing shapes obtained with padded extensions, but Duran Lantink's wardrobe for next winter also explored the effects of Trompe L'Oeil with sneak monkeys that embrace the body as a second -second skin, like a paint almost like a paint of the body, coinciding with tonal zeal boots.

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A strident note rang within the vast space in the home of Ottolinger Show. The models crossed the hall with a certain step, ready to face what promised to be a long day. Vibrant energy were covered in their spare and sports attire, whose garments, holds and made with laces and laces in the firm's Ottolinger style, literally clung to their bodies to create silhouettes outside the skin.

The clothes reflected the mentality of women with a newspaper too reserved. They were functional and versatile, suitable for private and public commitments. The hoodie, t -shirts and jersey trackskin lids wrapped up around the chest. They were used with skirts and leggings of lycra and other stretching materials, all apparently made with nylon socks in different skin tones.

The padded pads and rings added volume to the sides, belly or shoulders of these long and elegant silhouettes. A removable pad located behind the neck of a model, tied as a hood with a simple strip of fabric, or linked to sliding holders in the sleeves.

The designers Christist Bösch and the gradient of Cosima, both of Switzerland, reintroduced adjusted jeans this season, but after their own fashion, with cuts for an anguished effect and removable pockets that reveal a darker indigo impression, particularly in some jeans with golden painted.

The collection emphasized practicality, with neoprene jackets Ultra Light of felt full of felt and commercial costumes in elastic fabric. A more creative element was introduced by the lace tops, skirts and pants decorated with graphic works of Julien Ceccaldi's graphic works.

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ATLEIN continues to expand its range. The founder and creative director of the label, Antonin Tron, has expanded his vocabulary with new looks and materials. Drapped or gathered long sweater dresses remain the core of their wardrobe, but Tron has moved away from night clothes to include tops, coats and pants in a more urban sportswear atmosphere.

“I really wanted to add to the closet, showing the other side of Athlein. I took my time, but now I have a broader range of coats, trimmed tapas, pants and jackets, ”Tron to Fashionnetwork.com told. However, even with this external clothing record and day clothing, Tron still tan the lines and architecture of each garment.

Maxi jackets and coats with wool wide neck, tight at the waist with a bath belt, looked very attractive. The synthetic skinned jackets were cut shorter, to further rationalize the silhouette. The suit jackets had declaration shoulders, but firmly adjusted in the back through a system of laces and collectors. Wool pants rose at the waist, decreasing to a V where they were held. A tracksuit lid in a mixture of cotton and elastane took a volume and an almost high sewing shape.

Tron has found that ingenious design seems adequate for all sizes and tastes, especially when creating a series of draped and gathered bodies, simply used on a pair of socks, as a top part slipped into pants, or transformed into majestic night dresses with the addition of a cover skirt. For a small independent label such as Athlein, to maintain this level of detail and quality in the difficult business environment of today deserves the greatest respect.