Rok Hwang continued his pursuit of perfection in imperfection with a Fall 2024 lineup that saw the juxtaposition between a modern, deconstructed take on wardrobe staples and historical references from the High Renaissance and Romanticism eras.
“The Renaissance was about finding the perfect body shape, which to me represents perfection. While romanticism is about being imperfect. I think the confrontations between the two can bring something sharp. I thought that was the idea of beauty in this collection,” Hwang said backstage.
The designer said it was also about breaking free from the rules of the past, as he reconfigured a lot of vintage pieces he collected to find the right combinations to suit today's fashion conversation.
“I love working on patterns. For example, I would wear a Victorian dress under a tailored cut-out jacket,” she said.
One notable thing was a lesser presence of trench coats, an archetype of his designer language, repurposed or disguised this time as something else. Hwang adopted his modular fashion concept into a broader range of textiles such as denim, velvet and knits to evoke offerings that constitute a fashion feast.
These new iterations were refreshing compared to their previous, more rigorous approach to products. Ruched velvet dresses, pleated skirt-pant hybrids, zigzag-print knits and zip-up bombers stood out and required a less uniform setting to wear them, meaning a broader reach.
The show saw the debut of a footwear collaboration with Phileo, a brand under the Dover Street Market Paris umbrella. He is a ballerina inspired square toe loafer. Featuring a puffy tongue and basic belt detail, the style is available in tofu, shitake, and black colorways.
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