In a gilded room at the Irish Embassy in Paris, with the nation's flag flying just outside the window, rising fashion star Róisín Pierce presented an achingly romantic collection of intensely handmade lace looks, almost entirely whites, which were some of the most original things to walk down the catwalk this season.
“Oh beautiful girl who fell from a star. Sent from heavenly worlds of hope.” Thus began the poem that she wrote with Michelle Freya to accompany the collection and that he had printed in the exhibition notes. “Sorrow is the sparrow perched on its ivory silk and its pearl…”
With words and fabrics, the Dublin-based designer reflected on the pain of conflict, something Ireland knows all too well, and how conflicting textiles like Irene MacWilliam's Peace Quilt inspire her to try to mend a broken world with her cacophonous work and find the healing. in beauty.
“The collection is about hope, love, the narrative we created about a girl who fell from a star and the idea that she would heal the Earth and the different versions of how she would appear,” said Pierce, who was a finalist for the Award LVMH 2022 for its exploration of traditional Irish craftsmanship.
The looks enchanted with flower chain bodices, sculptural skirts and body-skimming dresses; sheer organza blouses floating with dangling petals and ribbons; glued tunics and bloomers with crochet lattices and floral vines, and more wonders. The intensity of the craftsmanship and sense of sculpture in the garments was surprising, and this season's collection also had subtle subversion and sex appeal.
Many clients look for all-white looks for wedding suits, he said. But a word of caution from Hollywood: Several looked very red carpet-appropriate, namely a floral diamond lace dress covered in wispy organza leaves and a side-slit dress with a crochet bodice and floral cup with alluring cutouts.
Pierce first introduced the color, in a deep blue sleeveless dress with gorgeous ruched details.
“Color is something I've always wanted to do,” she said, noting that she wears all black most of the time and could imagine producing looks from the new collection in black as well.
Pierce recently joined Dover Street Market's brand development division, which should drive business growth.
And she wants people to feel free to use her handmade treasures in their own way. To that end, the floral chain bodice, white shirt, and lace-trimmed bow-front jacket would look great with jeans. Is it new this season too? Hanging from her hand, a small crochet bag or, as she calls it, “a corsage holder.” Absolutely charming.
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