Caroline Hu's fall collection expanded on the idea of personal distance, last season's puffy shapes solidifying into soft shells in the face of a world that doesn't get any easier.
“Life is getting harder. There is war everywhere, the economy is not very good and I think everyone feels it,” Hu told WWD at his introduction. “But life always needs hope.”
Despite his desire to build armor, he doubled down on the gentle, romantic rhythm of his trademark.
Among the highlights shown on live models and static mannequins were a voluminous cocoon coat with a Peter Pan collar, a puffy tiered dress with padding, and an off-the-shoulder dress adorned with ribbons.
It wasn't so much about looking for a silver lining as it was about padding the bubble for maximum comfort. The embodiment of that glass-half-full stance was a vivid color palette filled with bright hues, particularly with Hu's paintings of lush flowers turned into prints and a touch of shimmer in ornaments and surface treatments.
Although its presentation enchanted, the outfit leaned towards haute couture. Items like painterly knitwear that debuted this season but only show up on your phone and the cute puff-sleeve top she sported would have deserved a closer look.
Hu said she was still trying to find the right balance between high-fantasy pieces and easily off-the-shelf pieces, as custom-made and ready-to-wear garments are equally important to her business.
He is also dabbling in collaborations. More ruffled Adidas sneakers arrived this season, and he said models based on last season's custom Samba sneakers would arrive in three colorways in May, with a second design in October.
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