“Really on steroids” is how designer Julien Dossena described his fall 2024 collection for Rabanne. The cool layered lineup brought the house's chainmail to the streets, almost literally, as children outside the Palais de Tokyo pressed their noses and camera phones against the windows to watch the clothes walking down the runway with a band nostalgic sound from Lisa Loeb and Yaz. (Remember Yaz?)
“I want intimacy and reality and just good clothes,” said the designer, inspired in part by the brand's collaboration with H&M last year, which sold out in 24 hours and introduced a new generation to Rabanne's codes, both the modern goldsmithing from Paco and goddess dresses from Julien and a more casual touch.
Loose, comfortable, warm and cuddly were words she used to describe the wardrobe of individual pieces, designed to allow a woman to build her own character: a fabulous chainmail button-down shirt with the versatility of her favorite flannel; a patchwork leather crewneck top; bold plaid pants; an oversized blanket cardigan; a crazy leopard faux fur top and scarf set; a green quilted miniskirt, or a pair of extravagant and fabulous crystal-embroidered tights, worn with mules or chunky brown boots, uncomfortable in a good way. It was all in the mix.
Ruched, fringed maxi skirts and dresses assembled from panels of prints had a thrifty haute-bohemian look, and Dossena de-padded the tailoring by showing a gravel-colored pantsuit with the jacket peeled back to the waist, revealing a yellow floral lining. . Leather blazers were layered over boyfriend blazers, button-down shirts, overly embroidered sheers, and contrasting prints and colors. There were plenty of good coats too, including a black leather-lined houndstooth coat and lots of new versions of the fabulous new Paco leather bags, which have a 70s feel to them.
Meanwhile, the sparkle of last season's rock goddesses was reduced to a bit of crystal here or there on a cardigan or a skirt, or a necklace that might have been borrowed from grandma.
“It's not refined, it's not bourgeois,” he said. “It's not about putting on a show. “That’s how you feel safe being yourself and being kind.” What a charmer.
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