Vincent Garnier Pressiat believes that the world is moving too fast. He worked the metaphor of him with holograms of a Cadillac, referencing a toy car that his grandmother gave him when he was five years old. The sound of speeding cars in the background amplified the mood in a set of repurposed tires (which were also used to create an innovative fabric for a dress in the collection) and artificial snow. His dark and bold collection was conceived as an answer to the need for speed.
With Jean Paul Gaultier sitting front row, live music by violinist and composer Sylvain Picart setting the tone and Julia Fox on the catwalk, it was clear that he continues to set the pace.
“He's incredible, he's very talented. What more can I say?” Gaultier enthused after the show.
In a palette of black, charcoal and off-white, Pressiat delivered sophisticated, seamless takes on form-fitting attire with hints of cabaret aesthetics. Many were paired with faux Mongolian fur pieces that evoked giant chapka hats, whose fibers billowed as a diverse cast of models walked in their gender-neutral designs.
The jackets were made of the same fabric; one with giant structured shoulders looked like angel wings; another had a stiff, boned collar trimmed with satin that played on the corsetry details the designer prefers.
Lace-up fabrics were also a nod in this direction, structuring the back of a tailored wool coat, a flowing shirt dress, the front of a pair of jeans or the sides of a strip of a fur-hemmed miniskirt.
Knit and wool dresses with asymmetrical lines that hugged the body. In one such look, the top was folded into a skirt, a thin chain holding it in place over the model's bare buttocks. Pressiat has the ability to celebrate and reveal the body with an avant-garde aesthetic without falling into vulgarity. If the applause of her guests as the models wandered around is anything to go by, she's on a winning streak.
For more Paris Fashion Week reviews, click here.
