The show may have been “under the sea,” but Pierre Cardin's latest collection was more of a time travel experiment.
The collection started strong from the beginning with a very glamorous gold and blue coat that felt fresh and could work in a fun and modern wardrobe in 2024. However, it was followed by a mix of looks, some of which looked like they had been extracted directly from the archive and needed an update.
The brand is now run by Pierre Cardin's great-nephew, Rodrigo Basílicati-Cardin. It has brought in new blood since the house's founder died in 2020, mainly thanks to its Young Designers Competition that attracted a handful of students with potential from various cities around the world to its design studio in Paris. You could feel the push and pull of new ideas with the need to use inherited forms and signals.
Sportswear made from gelled neoprene, especially for men, as well as a selection of capes, in bright green and yellow with contrast trim that could make an argument for eccentric outerwear.
Some standout dresses were also present, including an apple green column with wrap-around panels that close at the front, and several metallic looks, such as short dresses in burgundy and blue.
But as the design team looked toward the ocean, many of the geometric shapes seemed straight out of the brand's space-age past.
With a new team, Basilicati-Cardin should trust his best instincts and develop the house codes in new ways without diving deep into the past. The new fabrics could also refine that tactic.
Basilicati-Cardin put her environmental activism front and center, taking visitors on an immersive experience beneath the waves at L'Atelier des Lumières. A film that accompanied the show showed dolphins, whales, sharks and turtles in their natural habitats, as well as some activists in rescue efforts.
Her dedication is admirable (she even launched an eco-prize and hosted parties featuring speeches by scientists), but the latest fin dress look was too literal to take seriously. Maybe it'll be a fun editorial. The brand plans to launch a more commercial diffusion collection soon.
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