An important revival and a veteran celebration were the key stories in Paris Fashion Week on Tuesday, since Pieter Mulier presented his latest collection for Alaia at the new headquarters of the brand, and Jun Takahashi fucked his 35 -anniversary show.
Alaïa: Abstract geometry in the 11th district
On a cold night, Pieter Mulier presented a collection characterized by geometric abstraction for Alaïa, a noble way to inaugurate the new headquarters of the house in the north of Paris.
Both the new HQ and Rue St. Servan did not end completely causing a chaotic entry and exit of the show. However, located just south of the famous cemetery of Père Laachaise, the headquarters announced the Renaissance of the house under the direction of Mulier, and the management of the luxury giant, Richemont.
Although considered one of the best designers of all time, Azzedine Alaïa was notoriously stubborn, organizing its rare shows months outside the fashion seasons and, therefore, attracted few real buyers. And end a modest success given its innate talent.
Mulier to his credit manages to balance the commercial with accreditable, great with the cash register. His vision of Alaïa is respectful of his DNA, even when he extends his domain with unexpected materials and many more global influences.
This season, the designer born in Belgium explained that he was looking for inspiration in multiple cultures: Bolivia, North Africa and the United States, but there was nothing eclectic or culturally appropriate in the resulting clothes.
Its renewed grass skirts, ethnographic helmet or Riffs Andean felt very new. The opening hooded hull used with semi-bare wool tops or large false leather coats with balloons were impressive. Like their superheroine leather baskets and cut blazers: Catherine de Medici in the Amazon.
Corted pietter head of sheep/mink and dual -sided puppy layers diagonally with great floriture. Everyone looked great. That said, it was far from being a perfect exhibition: due to too many repetitive dresses and some too theatrical ways. Any other clothes for a track and not real life.
But in total, this was a fairly sublime collection that consolidated Mulier's reputation as fashion leader.
“The idea is to take the very essence of an idea or a garment and make it say 'new',” said Mulier Post-Show.
And, without a doubt, this new collection was.
Undercover: nostalgic, but not really
There are few more talented but deliberately eccentric designers today than the Great Jun Takahashi, whose 35 -anniversary collection of its covert brand actually commemorated its 20th anniversary collection. Well, more or less.
His winter collection in 2005 was titled “But beautiful … parasite, full part.” This season, his 2025 winter selection was called “but beautiful 4 …”
Takahashi's first intelligent idea was to combine champion jogging pants with custom jackets. A look that is usually Slobby. But in Jun's skillful hands, he led to a poetic sensation of Consuelo. Joggers with worn safaris or mute butterfly blazers.
Two decades ago, his collection referred to Patti Smith and stuffed animals. This season, the entire soundtrack was Nina Simone. From punk rock to moving poetry, rather like these clothes. While the cast was composed of several family figures of the Hipster world in Paris, such as singer Joana Preiss.
The stuffed animals, however, made a brilliant return in the end with an extravagant avant -garde taxidermia. From two swelling ball dresses, such as real turkeys upset, to a trio of ghostic feathers creatures with illuminated headbands.
Finishing an upright show with ideas inside Salle Wagram, an iron dance and wrought iron pine dance of the nineteenth century that is an iconic location in the fashion parade in Paris.
In terms of global recognition, Jun Takahashi and Undercover will always remain dark. However, for fashion experts, Jun will always keep a high range in the designer's pantheon. His unexpected juxtaposition of ideas and forms, his sense of fashion poetry, his ability to channel strange inspirations to suggest a new new fashion universe. Takahashi is a great designer who will always be appreciated in Paris. While this collection, and his previous ideas of 20 years ago, they will be serious.
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