One went from a golden embassy or under the Louvre to an elegant brand brand and a dusty and disused building to witness Victoria Beckham, Issey Miyake, Kenzo and Róisín Pierce, travel why Paris remains the fashion altar.
Victoria Beckham conquers in silence Paris
Three years ago, “The Daily Mail” laughed with Schadenfreude about the losses of Victoria Beckham. Today, Victoria has just organized one of the best most popular shows of the international season.
The air of expectation and enthusiasm was enormous, since one occupied the place inside an old electrical supply building in the ninth group. Dozens of high beauties appeared in the key creation of Beckham, the long and long silk night dress, the more I decolletated, the better.
Since he moved to show in Paris, Beckham has been peripatetic, changing from the old Karl Lagerfeld mansion to the Bagatelle gardens to this dusty building and in disuse with an empty elevator axis and rickety livestock. Known for organizing small aspiring labels, the space has welcomed successful brands such as Chloé and Dries Van Notten. No one has used the space with an aplome like Beckham, with a wide beige carpet, subtle lighting and an Oce Rockin Opery Band 'courtesy of DJ Michel Gaubert.
Above all, this was a collection focused with a very fine tailoring: blazers, smoking jackets and long and fluid military. A splendid tuxedo dress was attractive, just like a white dress robe that cut like an opera coat. At the same time, you could see the dozens of leggy customers of the Spice, jealously admiring the last long columns of the night.
A series of felt wool coats with displaced moldings initially looked elegant before their repetition made them seem a bit boring. And the final appearance, a white Top Top stylene, looked strangely dirty. However, in general, this was an outstanding exhibition of Beckham. You could say that from the front row, not the British visitors but the locals.
Do you know how the French are sometimes considered complicated? Well, you can only imagine how problematic French fashion critics can be. And they, one, could be said, universally loved this collection for his enthusiasm, brave femininity and palette of first level colors.
So, dear reader of “Daily Mail”, the news is in. Victoria Beckham has really managed to conquer Paris Fashion Week. Eat your heart.
Issey Miyake: The biggest applause on Friday
Always a good fashion acid test, applause at the end of a show. The brand that obtained the loudest ovation was Issey Miyake when Satoshi Kondo made a journey extended along the track.
The location, Carousel du Louvre, has been the site of many memorable shows from Miyake. This was one of the best. Interestingly, the large and extremely well -lit carousel, built in the early 90s to house spectacular French fashion, has been avoided for years by all the main Parisian brands. LVMH only comes here for your annual shareholders meetings.
On the other hand, Miyake's house worked the space with a great cunning, placing two large statues of giant mannequins in multiple t -shirts in the middle of a collection whose key theme was an inventive point clothing.
A half dozen dancers wandered before the show on the virgin catwalk, the size of four tennis courts, before gradually dressing of small piles of clothing that remain in mini podiums. They posed within invested fabrics in an orderly surreal exhibition that Magritte would have loved, suggesting that each look could be a garment or a sculpture.
Practically every passage in this collection had a visual trick. Opening with white cotton t -shirt dresses that seemed invaded by red groove fabrics, or Plissé cocktails twisted in exotic swirls, suggesting that they had their own lives.
Before Kondo began to marry Manisno Blazers with beautifully inverted shirts, his sleeves fell to the waist. Famous for his fabric innovation, the founder Issey would surely have loved the paper and the polyurethane v -shaped blazers who hugged the waist and flourished on the shoulders.
Everything was part of a comment on unbridled consumerism of a house that has long directed the search for recycled materials. Miyake was the first designer to create fashionable waterproof with recycled plastic bottles, dedicating a complete boutique in Tokyo to the concept two decades ago.
Then, the public loved the internal joke of several models dressed in fabric shopping bags turned into eccentric, printed with the program title: “Abstract, concrete and intermediate”.
The cast marched in New Camper X Issey Miyake Peu forms Shoes, sculpted leather samples wrapped around the foot. Then, in the end, the show entered overwhelming, with alpaca mixtures and thermoplastic synthetic fibers that produce rigid gar it in fantasy folds and silhouettes.
An explanation of the quite epic show of Kondo was “,[N]any [N]Or it is a representation of ambiguity as an attempt to connect contrasting binary in materiality, form and meaning. “
He took his arc, radiant of pride, and rightly. He and his team had made an excellent fashion performance.
Kenzo: slender chic and bunnies
Kenzo welcomed the guests at the headquarters of the brand quite Swish, a mansion on Rue Vivienne, which provides champagne and huge bowls of sweets to the guests in this show of cocktail hours.
Judging by the huge hordes of fans outside, the brand still has a real blow with a base of youth fans. Inside, the guests were in charge of an elegant series of chairs and sofas from the middle of the century.
“It's halfway between a tea room and a nightclub,” the CEO Sylvain Blanc smiled.
Then, the cast toured the space, visiting a series of rooms in a couple of floors, galvanized by an obscene soundtrack, from the Mobb Deep anthem “survival of the most suitable” to Johnny Rotten in “Public Image.”
Once, Kenzo was a famous Natty tailoring supplier. This season, it is again, from the Mannish Matinee Idol Louxedos for the Parisians of the Slees to the Silk Reds with Truncated Chales Necklaces. Everyone looked excellent. Combining jackets, silk blouses and some short and pure sweetlands with semi-bare harem pants seemed very modern, especially in a plaster with disheveled hair.
Graffiti Parkas, Jerkins and Tanks Rasted will surely attract Kenzo's young audience, just like the fresh canvas layers that are cut in the middle of the torso.
That said, the program essentially lost to the audience in the last six looks with all kinds of rabbit absurd rabbit sets that were dumb and excessively Disney.
Róisín Pierce: Dreamy in the Hôtel de Breteuil
A moment of grace and poetry in Róisín Pierce, who organized three intimate shows in the golden elegance of the Hôtel de Breteuil, also known as the Irish embassy in Paris.
The guests were enthroned in the chairs of Louis XIV when the cast slipped gently on the parquet floors to the soft sounds of “Into Dust” of Mazzy Star. Pierce's fashion is a delicate meeting of cotton spirals, snowflake cotton, embroidered with whispering light and feathensive tulle. It has a dream quality, rarely more than in this excellent collection that confirms Róisín as one of the younger contemporary designers.
The program also held two new key collaborations for Pierce, born in Dublin, a very attractive link with the successful Polene bag label, which resulted in a series of limited edition of box and spherical bags finished in small loop arches, seen wrapped around the dolls of many models with delicate straps.
Róisín also showed some great Stephen Jones hats, a significant compliment, since Jones has worked with multiple designers in Dior, as well as in all Paris and Milan.
But what remained in one's mind when leaving was the feeling of refinement and thinly beauty, a designer who was looking for a genuinely new and different way from the elegance of fashion. And doing it with skill in Paris.
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