Paris Fashion Week opened a Monday afternoon with the last postgraduate show of the master class of the Institute of the Mode (IFM) and an exhibition of the current favorite of Paris, terrible terrible Victor Weinsanto.
Weinsanto: intelligently completely crazy
Paris will always love a bit of a bad boy, and in that department, the last rummary of the city is Victor Weinsanto, who started the last season of designers in Paris on a sunny but cold day.
He has lots of attitude, a rich imagination and is not afraid to run some risks, as he did this season in a show organized in the basement in disuse of an ancient Holiday Inn instead of the Republique.
His fatal funky femme appearing in stained denim coats that, in fact, were made of leather. Using the same material in skirts, jeans and even its own consumption when the reverence was made.
For the night, it entered a higher march with silver leather busts combined with matching mini raw or a monkey used by a model whose matching silver hair reached its calves.
His cast liked boots and tip shoes and the main declaration earrings. And when they get married, they do it with corset wedding dresses, better to show their physical condition. While his bridesmaid uses black dresses from shoulder cocktails with a complete aggregate train.
Victor titled the “Complètement Givré” collection, an intelligent words game, since it means both completely crazy and completely ice cream, as is the Silver series in the program. Born in eastern France in Alsace and trained in Jean-Paul Gaultier, Weinsanto is a French unique talent that, in a moment of darkness and intolerance, we must appreciate and applaud.
His clothes are not for the weak hearts, but this is Paris after all, and is loved by that.
IFM: It looks like a potentially vintage harvest
IFM's master class of this year seems to be a very good harvest. A good half a dozen incipient designers showed a lot of talent, while so many again demonstrated the technical skills and skills to have long careers.
As always in a student show, the self -edge button went out, since these young talents struggled to stand out from the crowd. Inevitably, there were some absurdities, but in general, when there was, at least they contained evidence that the workers' students gave everything.
At the risk of offending the absent, he highlighted half a dozen. Starting with the rightly called Steven Chevalier, whose gentlemen of the high -color party carried multicolored wool coats, picturesque tapas and Buccaneer boots to pack a lot of blows. His collection was named “Out Rage”, and one could see why.
The Mixture of Reece Liang of camouflage too painted and metal mesh had a great visual kick as well as the bold layers of Darius Betschart combined with Bloomers.
The brands above some sweaters and cable dresses from Clémentine Lagadec Thévoux-Chabuel, where their fabrics even extended on boxing boots.
The Filip Bejak collection, entitled “Anastasiia Kleptomanov”, was a good visual word game in excessive consumption. With one of its models that wears a transparent pledge bag stuffed giant, as if fleeing to the police, or perhaps a sheriff.
Each of the 26 designers from 13 countries were allowed to send six looks. After several scores, it was difficult to know who. Then, we are guessing that one of our favorite looks was Rachel Luurssen, where he left Pharrell-Ed Pharrell Williams with a jean/cocktail of mildthood beautifully exaggerated with huge zero lamb sleeves. She is definitely a name to see.
In other places, Bravo to get more excellent crochets and tissues of Xingyi Jin. Think of Cool-Gothic Cool for 2024. And respect for Andu Yeonju Jang for clothes that managed to balance Kicky and Commercial.
Perhaps the most admired young talent was Wenji Wu, who captivated the heroes of childly grotesque comics who fight for knitted tops. Later, Richard Baldomà sent several large mosaic coats cut, before continuing with an Adonis with a large single dress made of the yellow and blue of the Ukrainian flag.
Today, kyiv is the center of a brave struggle to maintain the independence of Ukraine and defeat barbarism by a cruel Russian regime. Surprisingly suddenly supported by what we used to consider as the arsenal of democracy.
Here in Paris, fashion designers will always have difficulty expressing themselves freely through clothing, shows and ideas. These master's students today maintained that proud tradition. They sought freedom through self -expression. More power for them for doing so.
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