Rabanne's recent collaboration with H&M has introduced a new generation to the work of the space-age designer who died last year at the age of 88.
“People aged 18 or 20, even teenagers, discover the brand and make videos on TikTok explaining who Paco Rabanne was,” marvels Julien Dossena, who has run the brand for a decade.
But it's not just the house's signature chainmail dresses that benefit from instant recognition. Dossena has himself established a series of strong codes, many of which were present in both the H&M line and his pre-fall collection.
Her style can best be characterized as effortless sensuality. Case in point: a thigh-length gold chainmail dress, as easy to put on as a T-shirt, topped with a silver-lined khaki parka.
Among its bestsellers are knitwear with psychedelic prints. An off-the-shoulder maxi dress with a deep side slit was both indulgent and sexy, while a dark floral version with cape sleeves channeled the bohemian charm of British designer Ossie Clark, another treasure ripe for rediscovery by fashion neophytes. fashion.
Knitwear is a strong category for the brand, with options ranging from a fringed turtleneck coat with oversized metal buttons to a ribbed gold lurex evening dress that falls open at the hip.
Midriff-baring tops were paired with checked wool pants or straight black wrap skirts embellished with metal studs. About those cargo shorts with cut seams? Dossena said she got the idea from watching children on the Place de la République, a gathering spot for Paris skaters.
In fact, much of her inspiration comes from watching how her friends dress. Sure, she can create a show for the likes of Beyoncé and Taylor Swift, but Rabanne is no longer the domain of the “unwearable” plastic and metal dresses launched by its founder in 1966.
“We try to put an interesting spin on wardrobe staples, but the idea is for women to make them their own,” Dossena said. With a growing sideline in jewelry and handbags, this heritage brand is just getting started.
