Niccolò Pasqualetti brought together his vast historical references to take the public on a most unusual tour. “It is a journey through history and inspirations. Everything has a double face that is recognizable in certain eras or icons, but they travel together like opposites come together,” he said.
The collection fused its Florentine roots with textures with a futuristic bent, evident in the modern shapes and treatments.
Like a cloud, a white leather skirt was lifted at the oversized hem to reveal a silver lining; a metallic-effect treatment he used on crinkled, puffed space blanket skirts that referenced sculptor John Chamberlain. Elsewhere, skirts had subtle gatherings at the back of cinched, embossed leather waists for added dimension, which flared out at the hip and fell neatly back to create a slightly geometric volume.
A beaded vest fit like a harness that could be secured over the shoulder or at the waist, which meant models wore the beads as a macrame shield.
Knit tunics and sweaters with oversized sleeves were comforting. Soft double-faced wool coats had a wrap-around effect, with rounded shoulders and built-in scarves that wrapped around the neck, while he played with proportions in other outerwear with coats with capped sleeves and crisp white buttons.
Several looks had a softly enveloping shape, particularly in the corduroy tunics that came at the end of the lineup, with gentle ruching at the front of the shoulder that gently rounded the shape and voluminous sleeves that were reminiscent of Venetian tunics. She mostly stuck to a calming palette of grays and grays, save for the bright silver that peppers the entire collection.
The designer is a semi-finalist for the LVMH Prize for the second consecutive time. He also makes shoes, and this season's shape traced the foot into soft almond-colored flats.
A black padded cape dress was modern and somehow elegant without bulk, rigid and flowy. If these opposites travel together, pack your suitcase.
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