This Slovakian brand's less-is-more philosophy may make for understated silhouettes, but behind the scenes there was a lot going on in this clever fall collection. The brand's design team looked at the current state of artificial intelligence and the mistakes made by algorithms, and the theme yielded fun but subtle design details.
Functional elements were intentionally placed in the wrong places: a back pocket located on the side of an asymmetrical skirt, flaps on the hems of jackets, and belt and waist loops on the bottoms of impeccably cut pants. The details added intrigue to the silhouette and were perfectly executed to meet the brand's obsession with comfort and fit.
Calling the season's programming “The Calm Before the Storm” in reference to turbulent times, the design team played with elemental references in their color palette and motifs. The jacquard pattern of a pale blue silk shirt and dress looked like raindrops on glass, for example, while the seams were displaced as if hit by the wind. Among the standouts was a crushed velvet pantsuit in a moody gray, with a matching sheer vest.
As well as minimalist tailoring and luxurious cashmere and merino fabrics with clever twists, such as printed stitches that seemed to overflow by accident, there was also a great selection of innovative outerwear. Coated wool jackets had a crinkled patent leather finish, adding pops of steely blue or vivid magenta to the line, while what appeared to be a classic Harris tweed coat from the front revealed a quilted jacket behind.
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