There are two types of fashion critics: those who like to absorb the whole picture and those who take copious notes to memorize their impressions. Full disclosure: this reporter scribbles like crazy.
After four looks at Casey Cadwallader's fall collection for Mugler, it became clear that it was time to put down the pens and just sit back. The designer offered another amazing show full of modeling icons.
Against a gigantic black curtain, they emerged dressed in elegant outfits that harnessed the harsh glamor of bondage and the sensuality of boudoir. Suddenly, the curtain fell, the first in a succession of reveals that used shadows and smoke to highlight each exit, while drones roamed the set.
Cadwallader was inspired by founder Manfred Thierry Mugler's insect creations, working pointed panels into spiral-shaped constructions and sectioning the body with graphic leather straps.
“I was really tempted by the dark side, but I found a beautiful balance that was very, very glamorous at the same time,” she explained backstage. “Mugler is very much about empowerment and I think there are different sides to that. “It can be beautiful and light and airy, and it can also be difficult.”
The poster had flou, tailoring, velvet, leather and tweed, but above all, fierce attitude.
Irina Shayk strutted her stuff in a burgundy leather coat that opened to reveal toned abs. Natasha Poly, with shiny hair slicked back, sported an oversized fitted jacket over a barely-there bra and buckled shorts.
Precious Lee looked regal in a black velvet dress that slit to the thigh, while Eva Herzigova walked by in a black minidress with a plunging neckline.
A series of velvet looks were printed with the darkly atmospheric works of Canadian painter Ambera Wellmann, and Cadwallader reinforced the masculine side of the show, with looks including a puffy midnight blue leather parka wet-molded into tight pleats.
In homage to Mugler's pioneering use of faux fur, he developed a furry material made of nylon fur embroidered with strips of patent leather, and who better to model it than Farida Khelfa, a regular customer of the brand. “I just texted him and said, 'Would you ever walk in Mugler?' And she told me, 'It's about time you asked!'” she recalled.
It's no wonder that industry legends are lining up to participate in their shows. The man behind the curtain is some kind of genius.
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