Mr. Saturday creative director Joey Gollish wanted to critique and appropriate the punk aesthetic for his fall collection.
Gollish worked from the thesis that the Sex Pistols' legendary concert at Manchester's Lesser Free Trade Hall in 1976 was the only time punk really existed; everything after that was an imitation.
So he imitated punk style on his own terms, reducing it to broad-shouldered shapes in jackets, white shirt combinations, skinny black tie, and floor-length striped coats.
The ubiquitous Bank of America and MasterCard logos were modified with punk slogans to give them an anarchic touch. Elsewhere, Gollish took photographs of political protests around the world and applied them to leather and knitwear using a new Kornit chiffon printing technique.
A slim-fit pants and trucker jacket combo made from a silk jacquard dotted with tiny roses was a fresh update to the suit. Gollish created the textile for a friend's wedding in Italy before incorporating it into the collection.
The balance of the collection leaned more toward tailoring than the streetwear that marked the beginning of his career. She fit right in with the current focus on classic cuts, and his ultra-long coat fit right in with this season's trend.
Gollish does double duty at Canadian brand Roots. The membership has helped improve its textile game and therefore its price. The designer is aware that selling jackets for more than $4,000 isn't very punk, but said the elevation of the collection is the next step in the brand's growth, as well as a comment on the commercialization of punk.
With Ramones t-shirts available at Walmart and credit card companies issuing plastic with the band's signature art, among other tongue-in-cheek monetization, it's more punk to dress up. “Punk is not just about leather jackets and jeans,” he said. “[The collection] It's like a DIY approach to trying to send your own message to people.”
The argument might be dubious, but the clothes were good.
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