The independent fashion brand is alive and kicking in New York. While mid-sized designers in Europe have had a few troubled seasons, here in New York they all seem pretty vibrant.
Monse is in a very good mood
There's no better example of this than Monse, the duo of Laura Kim and Fernando Garcia, who are in top form. Last month they had a shining moment when they dressed former first lady Michelle Obama for the Democratic Convention in Chicago in a stunning sleeveless formal tuxedo with split lapels and capri pants. This Saturday, in the Meatpacking District, they presented the most eye-catching collection of the day.
Much like Michelle's look, the key to the collection was the combination of artistic deconstruction and refined tailoring, seen in a great series of blazers, fitted jackets and frock coats and tailcoats with cut-outs. While a cricket jacket with elongated sleeves paired with a miniskirt made from city trousers turned inside out was truly fantastic. Paris Hilton in another version of the same look, sitting in the front row, had the paparazzi in meltdown.
The duo were less confident in their weekend sportswear, with too many striped T-shirts and dresses, all awkwardly paired with banal loafers.
For the evening, however, they launched into action with eye-catching sequined screen goddess columns. Crafted in shiny metal and paired with high-heeled boots, they had great authority. Before Grammy and Emmy-winning actress and comedian Tiffany Haddish finished things off in a masculine green satin pantsuit, which garnered the biggest cheer of the day.
Khaite: November rain
Guns n Roses' rock anthem November Rain accompanied the start of Khaite's final show, and it seemed as if the song's melodrama had infected this collection.
For the past few seasons, Khaite, the brainchild of designer Catherine Holstein, has been the most innovative show in New York. Not this season, though there were some great tailoring pieces.
Presented in a stark, all-white exhibition space dissected by rotating metal panels, the collection's big hit was a series of tuxedos and men's jackets cropped to mid-torso.
Holstein should be applauded for taking many risks with this collection, but too often his sheer chiffon and gauze ideas turned into clumsy clouds of fabric, dulling the impact of the show and, like the November rain, leading to an unhappy ending.
Jonathan Simkhai: Loving Lace
This season, Jonathan Simkhai found his initial inspiration in a silk petal that fell from a family album and was once attached to the dress his mother wore on her wedding day in 1972.
It was a subtle stimulus that gave rise to a charming collection, made mainly in cream, white and ecru tones, with touches of orange and black. Cheerful coats, boleros, peplums and fitted tops, all of them finished with fabric petals, flowers and roses.
Simkhai combined panels of lace and guipure to add a romantic touch. Yet the style remained elegant and sophisticated, never cloying. All while keeping in mind the DNA of her family, which owns a lace factory in Iran.
A tremendously polished performance presented early on Saturday morning on the 100th floor of New York's newest skyscraper, the Edge at 30 Hudson Yards. Unfortunately, a huge pale grey cloud enveloped the building just as the show was starting, so you could barely see even a drone passing outside.
Leaving us to focus on this composed and elegant collection, which earned a huge round of applause when Jonathan and his mother took a joint bow at the end.
Sergio Hudson
No show in New York has a sense of party and celebration quite like Sergio Hudson's, who served guests perfectly poured Old Fashioned cocktails at his show.
Presented in an exhibition space in Murray Hill, before an audience that cheered and applauded practically every look, to better enjoy every moment.
A very glamorous, if somewhat restrained, collection featuring elegant trouser suits in brown and black stripes or canary yellow wool; sequined T-shirts over masculine twill trousers; and va va vroom sequined columns in pastel shades.
Hosted by a strong cast that included a trio of veterans, the inimitable Vanessa Webb, a long-time favourite of Karl Lagerfeld; sad-eyed Vlada Roslyakova; and quirky Dutch beauty Jessica Stam.
The mood was set by jazz classics such as Nancy Wilson's “The Good Life” and elegant cocktails. The climax was capped by prolonged applause from the famously generous Hudson. Guests left with gift bags containing scented candles and half-liter bottles of the excellent Woodford Reserve Kentucky bourbon. Of course, they were engraved with the designer's name.
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