Monday in Paris: Pierre Cardin and Coperni

On the eighth day of Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2024, French brand Pierre Cardin took its space girls underwater, while the duo behind Coperni had theirs chart a path to stardust .

Pierre Cardin: Cardin's '60s Astronauts Trade Space for Ocean Depth

The iconic French brand, recognized as one of the most prolific in terms of licensing since the '60s (the name has been emblazoned on furniture, tabletop art, and even mineral water), put on a show worthy of its monumental heritage.

Located within the walls of the Atelier des Lumières, Paris's 3,000 square meter exhibition space dedicated to digital art, this season's collection was revealed against a backdrop of giant digital screens. The screens unraveled at first against a smoky white filament, reminiscent of the Milky Way, before revealing the show's guiding line: the ocean. Dolphins, sea creatures of all kinds (sharks, puffer fish and angler fish, my goodness!) and coral reefs surrounded the guests, among whom were Amandine Petit, crowned Miss France 2021, and Prince Carlo de Bourbon-Dos Sicilies.

While Rodrigo Basílicati-Cardin, designer of the house since 2022 and nephew of the late Pierre Cardin, has always exploited the remarkable 'space age' fashion DNA of its founding member, he decided for Fall/Winter 2024 to immerse his Amazon astronauts in the depths of the ocean. One model wore a full black PVC ensemble beneath a short blood orange dress, edged with octopus-like tentacles, while another strutted around in a floor-length midnight blue satin dress with a silver circular brooch at the top. shell shape.

In another nod to Poseidon's territory, the back of one girl's thin black dress was adorned with wavy, translucent lime-green fins, while another's sharp-shouldered, fitted-waist jacket of embossed mother-of-pearl brocade shined like hers. an exotic fish. As for accessories, models wore goggle sunglasses and geometric bags in the shape of triangles attached to a circular shell-shaped Pierre Cardin logo. The looks also spilled onto the runway with the classic material of choice for divers: neoprene.

An overall show that didn't leave anyone feeling like they were drowning and revealed a more liberated idea of ​​what the vision of the Basilicati-Cardin brand is now, evolving from preceding shows that were too close to the same theme of the 'Space Age'.

Coperni: the meteorite muses explode on the catwalk

French brand Coperni is famous for its modern theatricality; her Spring/Summer 2023 collection featured robot dogs and, before that, Bella Hadid's sensational spray dress.

See catwalk

For Fall/Winter 2024, design duo Sébastien Meyer and Arnaud Vaillant occupied Europe's largest television studio, Studio 217, located on the outskirts of Paris. Guests were greeted with Apérol spritzes as they waited for the evening show to begin, during which they were able to witness the arrival of French actress Adèle Exarchopoulos (who just won the César for best supporting actress) and singer Angèle, as well as this season's recurring. Show attendee Cole Sprouse and his model girlfriend Ari Fournier.

Inside the enormous hall, a giant black rectangle, stretching from floor to ceiling, dominating the center of the space, lit up as the show began.

The first models walked through the space wearing sharp-shouldered, blazer-like architectural jumpsuits that imitated trench coats (although, knowing Coperni, were they actually technical fabrics that imitated traditional fabric?) and classic leather jackets that had gone rogue. . Overall, Coperni maintained her Parisian cool girl aesthetic with sleek, narrow, elongated shapes.

Used as carry-on bags, the mini bags were vacuumed into Ziplock-type plastic bags, making them difficult to distinguish. However, a male model wore it without protection, revealing that it was actually made of airgel, a material used by NASA on satellites to trap stardust. The future outer space bag weighs just 35 grams and is made of 99% air, anointing Coperni once again as the innovative brand in fashion, one that pushes the boundaries of industry design as we know it.

Another pair of iconic looks; a crushed aluminum miniskirt topped with a bright (like stardust!) navy knit polo shirt with long sleeves, as well as a backless black crepe dress with a floating feather ring around the bust. It could even be one of Saturn's rings!

By the end, the giant block burst into a shadowy, blinding light, like that of a meteorite explosion. The models gathered in a rapid walk, like cosmic dust escaping from a comet. A show to remember at Planeta Moda.