Milan Fashion Week announces a series of new names and returns

The women of the Milan Fashion Week, scheduled from February 23 to March 3, promises to be intense and festive, with a very renewed show calendar. A dozen labels will be lost a week, but their absence will be compensated by eight new names, such as Fiorucci and K-Way, in addition to several emerging labels, three returns: Giorgio Armani, MSGM and Blumarine, as well as exhibition events. Like that of Fendi, celebrating the centenary of the Roman label and the DSQUARED2, celebrating the 30th anniversary of the label. It is also worth mentioning the presence of French designer Charles de Vilmorin, who will exhibit his collection as part of an exchange project with the Italian fashion camera (CNMI).

Fifty -five physical shows are scheduled (including Emporio and Giorgio Armani, both twice) during the week of the Milan Women's Show, in line with the 55 shows organized last September. In addition, on the closing day of the week, the program includes six shows in digital format: Tokyio James, Maison Nencioni, Maxivive, Jacob Cohen, Viapiave33 and the Neapolitan Tag of Demi Couture Saman Saman Loira, for the first time in the calendar of Milan . CNMI has listed 153 events in total for this week of women's clothing, including 65 presentations, 4 presentations only by invitation and 23 special events.

Gucci will begin the procedures on Tuesday, February 25, organizing a mixed show. A formula that many labels have adopted this season, having jumped the week of male clothes in January. In addition to Gucci, the opening day of the week will have DSQUARED2, the Dean and Dan Caten label, which will close the day with a show and a great party for its 30th anniversary, positioning, only for this once, in the calendar Women's clothes. K -way also, who used to show himself during the Hears week of the winter season alone, moved to women's week and organize a mixed show that celebrates its 60th anniversary, also scheduled the first day.

The same formula for Fendi, which will be shown the next day, on the night of February 26, at its headquarters in Via Solari. The show will be organized under the supervision of Silvia Venturini Fendi, creative director of the accessories and accessories collections for men, who will also design the collection for Ready-To-Wear Women's Clothing, who has not been a creative director from Kim Jones he went away.

Among the main returns in the program, that of Giorgio Armani, which was in New York last fall, and will return to Milan on Sunday, March 2. After skipping a season, Blumarine will return on Thursday, February 27, under New Creative director David Koma. MSGM will also return to the Milanese clues, on Saturday, March 1. The label retired in September, after having decided to show its female collection in June next to male clothes, to celebrate its 15th anniversary.

The week will also have a lot of new names. The first is Fiorucci, with Francesca Murri in charge of the style, which will make its inaugural appearance in the official calendar on Saturday, March 1, after organizing a first show outside the calendar last season. In addition, there will be many young emerging talents, for example, Francesco Murano, 27, with their structured and minimalist silhouettes and covered sculptural looks. Murano grew near Salerno in southern Italy, along with an embroidered grandmother and a seamstress. In 2016, he moved to Milan to study the fashion design at the IED academy, and launched his first collection in 2019.

Also from southern Italy, more precisely Calabria, is Giuseppe Di Morabito, 32, who will organize his first Milanese show on February 28. Di Morabito studied at the Marangoni isituto in Milan, and founded his own label in 2014. characterized by haute couture lines, colors, textures, precious materials and sophisticated treatments, for a sexy and contemporary glamorous style that has won many celebrities, like Lady Gaga and Zendaya. The Di Morabito label is distributed through almost 180 retailers, and in 2023 Italian Fund of Capital Investment bought an 80% participation, while the homonymous designer still has the remaining 20%.

Galib Gassanoff, 30, who associated with Luca Lin for seven years in Label Act No. 1, separating from him in February 2023, leaves alone with his new label, Institution, which will be shown on February 25 and define as a partner -artistic project. Gassanoff, born in Georgia, of Azeri language and culture, settled in Milan in 2012 through a scholarship.

On Sunday, March 2, Milan will be the host for the first time, Peruvian designer Jorge Luis Salinas, who grew up in Gamarra, home of the most important textile manufacturing center in Peru. Graduate of the Textiles and Sciences College of Philadelphia, in 2016 he founded the J. Salinas label, which combines traditional experience and technological innovation, and collaborates with artisanal communities in Peru. Chinese designer Susan Fang will show the same day. He has the support of Dolce & Gabbana, and was included in the calendar last September, but decided to postpone his program in the next winter session.

Another new feature at Milan Fashion Week will be the first collaboration between CNMI and Fashion Fashion and Haute Couture Federation (FHCM), with the aim of giving greater visibility to one of the emerging talents of one of the associations. For France, Charles de Vilmorin will present his latest collection in Milan in The Fashion Hub, a space that shows several creative projects backed by the institutional bodies of Italian fashion. For Italy, Marco Rambaldi, a point -clothes specialist who is regularly shown in Milan, will have the opportunity to present his work during the Paris Fashion Week (scheduled from March 5 to 11) in Sphère, the exhibition room administered by FHCM and supported by the French public body Defi Defi.

Among the notable absent of the next fashion week in Milan, a first -level name is Bottega Veneta, in the middle of a transition phase after the arrival of the new creative director Louise Trotter, who has replaced Matthieu Blazy, now In charge of Chanel style. She will present her first collection next season. Boss, which is shown in Milan every two season, will return in September. Philosophy has abandoned the calendar, after being subsumed in Alberta Ferretti. The homonym designer and founder of the latter retired, giving his place to Lorenzo Serafini, who used to be in charge of the philosophy of the young line of the label, and will present his first Alberta Ferretti collection on Tuesday, February 25.

Nor are they included in the show calendar: Vietnamese designer Phan Dang Hoang and Chinese designer Mao Bao of the Chicomao label, who debuted in Milan last season; Tokyo James, who has opted for a video presentation; Federico Cina, the Attico and Andreadamo, three emerging labels that were shown in September; And finally, three regularly from the Milan Regulars GCDS, of Core and Rave Review.

However, Milan's Fashion Week can count as always in Marquesina Tags in Italy: on Wednesday, February 26, Jil Sander, Antonio Marras, Marni and Fendi; on Thursday 27, Roberto Cavalli, Etro, Max Mara and Prada; On Friday 28, Moschino, Missoni, with the new creative director Alberto Caliri and Versace, with what is rumored that it could be the last show of Donatella Versace; and on Saturday, March 1, Dolce & Gabbana and Philipp Plein. Gucci will start Fashion Week, and Giorgio Armani will bring it closer.