A contrast in the styles in three collections at Paris 0n Fashion Week on Monday: the corporate, the committed and the great, by Louis Vuitton, Gabriela Hearst and Zimmermann.
Trans-Europe Vuitton
The designer Nicolas Ghesquière took Vuitton on his last trip on a track on Monday night, leaving a virtual station next to a real, the Gare du Nord.
Presenting its last combination of futurism, active sport, technical materials and ironic humor to a 400 audience.
Win prolonged applause for what will surely be judged as one of its best collections for Vuitton. In the end, greeting the first lady Brigitte Macron in a long hug while traveling the multiple track set.
A long and energetic collection organized before a gang of friends of Nicolás's actress: Saose Ronan, Alicia Vikander, Lea Seydoux, Jennifer Connelly and Emma Stone.
Taking risks with each look, from the beginning: cut -cut shorts like kiki bachi basins in lotus -shaped lotus, combined with transparent latex dishes. Latex jumps used on red orchid velvet shirts; Anoraks Graphics with road signaling Vuitton logos; or bright tartan blankets wrapped in sexy saris after the hour. For the night, Samurai in the form of armor in the form of Samurai, with the folding dresses of Mille-Feuille-Chiffon.
The models run on the great triangular atrium, as desperate for not missing a train, or a lover that comes out during the weekend. Guests sitting on the metal platform seats.
In addition, the bags were something else: violin or mandolin cases in Damier printing; o Double pairing bags in the Vuitton monogram tied around the waist as Uilleann pipes. Like the last footwear of Nicolas, starring high heels or chelsea boots wrapped in two -inch thickness soles; or thick ballerinas socks integrated in new and fresh boots.
“Recreating the bustling atmosphere of a train station in Paris, where fleeting moments between strangers are shared, weaving a tapestry of stories,” was Ghesquière's explanation.
A fleeting moment that ended up becoming a strong fashion statement.
Gabriela Hearst: Perfectly Neolithic
An immigrant to America itself, Gabriela Hearst, for her credit, has not forgotten where she came from, and that others like her will want to continue on their way.
When leaving their last show in Palais de Tokyo, the guests received an ACLU's steering wheel that explained how one should interact with the heavy ones of the immigration and customs application at work, or at their door.
Entitled “Know your rights”, the steering wheel offers precise legal advice on how to deal with ICE. Revealing this scourge of all immigrants spell l'see in France, which says a lot.
Back inside, the audience could enjoy an intelligent, composed and great collection of Hearst, inspired by the concept of symbolism of the goddess. Where the ancient and neolithic signage, the spirals, the zigzags and the snake incisions were the idea of connection of the collection. In the belief that abstract reasons indicate the roles of women as a protector and nurisher of humanity.
The result was a great appearance: to open with a series of strong coats and leather jackets, often cut in the treated sheep, whether hairy or shaved. Few designers cover or adapt the leather as effectively as Gabriela, although again as the daughter of the Uruguayan rancher, is in her personal DNA. Its sharp blazers and shirts; Always flared skirts and brilliant meeting cocktails were excellent.
In a season occupied for Hearst, he also opened a seven -month luxury emerging window at the Bristol hotel, which will remain open until November 1.
Limiting a good moment, to strong applause, since he received his ovation in an ACLU lid. Making his humanism evident in his arch.
Zimmermann: Picnic at the Petit Palais
One of the great successful stories of fashion is Zimmermann's house, which presented an attractive vision of Haute-Bohemian Chic in a cold Monday in Paris.
Perhaps, the initial emotion of discovering Zimmermann a decade ago in New York has disappeared, but Nicky Zimmermann continues to dream fresh acquires his optimistic style of Oz Signature.
For the next fall, he wants to attack his fans with diaphanous gauze dresses with flying or organza dresses. Semi-bar, showing a lot of underwear and used with large and heavy boots, its finished ankles with woven leather straps.
Titled “hypnotic”, This autumn 25 collection was inspired by one of the best films in Australia, the mysterious history of the Victorian crime “Picnic at Hanging Rock” about the disappearance of three schoolgirls and a teacher.
“Picnic in Hanging Rock celebrates its 50th anniversary this year … Our collection, such as the film, is guided by a mysterious spirit and the disturbing, ethereal and romantic qualities of a dream inside a dream,” explained designer Nicky Zimmermann.
Pointing out that the use of Victoria Guipure and Lace; dramatic silhouettes; Polvorian colors of Australian nature; Mt Macedonia maps; and the pineapple of the schoolgirl uniforms.
In total, a highly evocative collection was organized with ingenuity and vigor within the Penit Palais with Katie Holmes and Rose Byrne fans sitting in the front row.
And, with dozens of buyers who look very happy in the front row, the last example of commercial and commercial Zimmermann. You will see, unlike Picnic boarding school in Hanging Rock, which declared bankruptcy due to the scandal, Zimmermann continues booming.
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