Bernard Arnault, the boss of Louis Vuitton, loves a big show, and on Tuesday night he got a huge one when designer Nicolas Ghesquière closed the official Paris runway season with a gigantic spectacle before 4,000 people.
And the clothes weren't bad either. In fact, one of the best collections Nicolas Ghesquière has ever designed for the house, as the French creative director celebrated his decade at the helm of Vuitton.
The action centered on a gigantic flickering sphere, created by the monumental artist Philippe Parreno, whose orbit had taken it to the Cour Carrée du Louvre. It became even more dramatic when the pre-show electric shower was unleashed on the transparent roof of the show tent.
There is no shortage of stars in the front row either: from Sophie Turner in baggy Scarlet Pimpernel pants, suspenders and a black top, to Emma Stone in pants and a fencing-style bolero with mutton sleeves. Along with them, Chloë Grace Moretz, Saoirse Ronan, Phoebe Dynevor and Kelly Rowland. Although the first prize for best look went to Cate Blanchett, she recycled her cobalt blue Vuitton silk shirt, with which she went as a nominee to last year's Oscars.
A collection that had all the best of Nicolas' unique fashion mix: active sportswear; futuristic elegance; Superlative finish and bold draping.
Opening with an all-white athletic quartet: Norfolk jackets cut like turtleneck blouses and worn with pocketed, ruffled skirts. Jumping back and forth between day and evening wear, he showed mega paillette maxi dresses and floor-length dresses before launching cocktail-cut hiking jackets.
Although her key idea was a remarkable series of puffy or peasant dresses made of stunning stiff silks printed like LV bags or monogram prints. Whatever you think of Ghesquière, it is unquestionable that few designers demand such intelligent experimentation from their workshops and artisans.
“This is a particular night. A significant evening. Ten years ago, you came to my first show for Louis Vuitton. I remember the feeling of the 'beginning', the immense joy I felt at being among you. This joy is still here. Ten years later, tonight is a new dawn,” Ghesquière said in his program note, in which he thanked Bernard and Delphine Arnault, and his two chief executives at Vuitton, Michael Burke and Pietro Beccari, for their “trust.”
Parreno's set featured a quartet of black wastelands, suddenly illuminated as the main star and its satellites became fully illuminated. Before the show, everyone made so much noise that it seemed like they were going to take off or that a mounted cavalry helicopter regiment was about to attack.
With the set going into overdrive, there was a stylish robotic section, a very new series of putty gray military vests with cinched waists, all of which are sure to be copied by weaker talent. With most of the cast (certainly the best selection of intriguing new faces on any show this season) wearing furry sheepskin gloves and some carrying new mini metallic matelassé cases.
Before finishing with the best look: Rianne van Rompaey, who opened the last day of Paris Fashion Week at Chanel and officially ended it at Vuitton. Dressed in a large asymmetrical and twisted feather dress topped by a mini leather cape.
All together they earned Ghesquière a prolonged standing ovation, which he received with a radiant smile, dressed in his trademark black uniform.
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