Haider Ackermann will debut the Tom Ford collection at Paris Fashion Week in March

Haider Ackermann will present his mixed debut collection for Tom Ford at Paris Fashion Week on Wednesday, March 5, marking the first time the US label will organize a show in the French capital.

A Fashion Lves a debut, and the other huge in Paris will be the first collection of Sarah Burton for Givenchy's house on the morning of Friday, March 7, according to the provisional show calendar published Monday by the Federation of the Haute Couture et of Mode la (FHCM), the governing body of the French high fashion.

In other news, Alaïa's house will make its first official appearance at the Federation's schedule. Its founder Azzedine Alaïa was famous for introducing himself out of season. While its current creative director Pieter Mulier presented his most recent Alaïa collection at the Guggenheim Museum last September, one of the most prominent aspects of New York Fashion Week.

Several notable houses return to the season, including Coperni, which showed the calendar in Disneyland last year; Kenzo, who had focused on mixed shows in the male clothing season since September 2020; and Ludovic de Saint Servnin and Off-White, who had recently shown themselves in New York. They also return after the brief parañas Marine Serre, Undercover and Véronique Leroy.

While several independent Nurc Akyol labels, Christopher Esber and Hodakova will also make their first appearance in the official calendar.

As always, huge multitudes of professionals and fans will frame to witness the big brands in Paris, whose shows of shows are strictly private. They include gigantic marques such as Dior, Hermès, Louis Vuitton and Chanel, along with directional stars houses: Yohji Yamamoto, Dries Van Notten, Courrèges, Chloé, Rick Owens, Victoria Beckham, Valentino, Miu Miu and Balenciaga, among others.

In total, there will be 72 shows, including the Master of Arts joint show of the Institut Français de la Mode (IFM), the most outstanding fashion and fashion management University in France. Along with 31 presentations distributed by the City of Light.

Next season, which presents autumn/winter collections 2025/2026 extends from Monday, March 3 until Tuesday, March 11. With access to the calendar always controlled by the FHCM, whose executive president Pascal Morand offers his ideas about the next season to Fashionnetwork.com.

Fashion Network: Paris has attracted some very high profile names for the schedule of this season, both new brands and those that return, such as Tom Ford, Alaïa, Off-White and Givenchy. Why does the French season have such magnetic power?

Pascal Morand: Paris Fashion Week has a series of structural characteristics: the presence and participation of the most recognized brands; the requirement of the selection commissions; the rigorous work involved in preparing the official calendar; a creative ecosystem of great vitality; an active policy in favor of emerging brands; the dual economic and cultural dimension of this important event; close cooperation with public authorities; an innovation policy based on an international history; The “taste of Paris”, which exudes the union of fashion and arts. All these factors are aligned in favor of the attraction of Paris and are reflected in the policy led by the Federation Executive Committee.

FN: Last year it was complicated for catwalk brands, and most suffering sales decrease. What do you expect in 2025?

PM: This situation follows a moment of high growth in international markets. Several factors have joined, such as the crisis that affects digital pure players; difficulties in the wholesale market; A low relative growth and the property crisis in China, which have markedly led to an increase in the savings rate and now to a policy of impulse of consumption. All this adds to digital and ecological revolutions, which accelerate. We are living a period of rebalance and changes, but the foundations of success remain the same: the vitality of creation, the quality of knowledge, the culture of innovation.

FN: Recently, the Minister of Culture, Rachida Dati, announced several measures to open fresh spaces where young designers can show. What do you expect the impact to be?

PM: For young designers, presenting their collections is essential and an integral part of their development model. The issue of places for shows and presentations is often delicate, due to the availability and cost involved. That is why we have a long -standing cooperation with the Tokyo Palais, you can find a mutualized space and a presentation space adjacent to the exhibition room of the sphere. But we need to take this further, and we are working in this direction. We have shared this challenge with public authorities, and it is with this in mind that the Minister of Culture has made its ads that attests to the common concern regarding the support of emerging brands.

FN: The European Union, and France, have recently introduced new laws that govern sustainability, recycling and the final use of fashion products. What impact will they have on Paris Fashion Week?

PM: We actively continue the French and European initiatives and we are involved in the associated discussions. For example, the Federation is a voted member of the Technical Secretariat of the PEF and the PEF footwear (Environmental Footprint) in the European Commission, with a view to European environmental labeling. The Federation is also represented, as well as the Nazionse Chamber of the Italian fashion, through the European Fashion Alliance within the Ecodesign forum that brings together a limited number of organizations from all sectors of the economy.

There, the delegated acts of the ESPR (Ecodesign for the regulation of sustainable products) will be elaborated, dealing in particular with the recycling and the treatment of unexplained goods. However, the French and European regulations refer to the industrial value chain, and not the value chain of the event, which is where the Paris fashion week enters. In this regard, the Federation has been established as of 2019, Step.event, an ecological design tool for fashion and presentations parades, in association with PWC and with the support of Defi, which is now widely used by the houses.