At Givenchy's historic George V couture salons on Wednesday, Ruinart Champagne was transported in elegant crystal coupes on silver trays while piano music played. The tables were piled high with muffins and mini lobster sandwiches from the Ritz Hotel, and small black napkins with 4G logos were offered with silver tongs.
Less than three weeks after creative director Matthew M. Williams left the brand, Givenchy returned home and to the aristocratic atmosphere that has long surrounded it. Gone were the 3D-printed sneakers, distressed jeans, meaty bombers and logo T-shirts that were among the elements Williams had brought to the brand during his three years in charge.
In their place came a little of everything, including colorful suits and elegant coats reminiscent of the Ozwald Boateng era, extravagant silk babushkas printed with a variety of hairstyles, and chandelier prints splashed across silk shirts and heavily embroidered jeans.
What a sight to see the models going up and down the grand staircase with its elaborate wrought iron railing, parading slowly like in the haute couture shows of yesteryear. However, the show had a grandeur that the clothes couldn't live up to.
Attributed to a design team, the collection was based on couture gowns, tuxedo attire and luxury casual wear, and was largely in line with the season's return to classic menswear. It was “a study of the new gentleman inspired by the character of Hubert de Givenchy,” according to the press notes.
While tailcoats were paired with casual sleeveless T-shirts, the collection had an elegant backbone, with pearl buttons lining the backs of turtlenecks and Henley sweaters, and stiff horsehair adorning coats and pants for effect. faun.
From time to time, the seriousness was interrupted by humor, like those babushkas, and a series of outings, including a silver parka with an archival cat print and her yellow eyes staring outward.
Pending the appointment of a new creative director, this placeholder collection did its job in keeping the flame of an esteemed heritage brand alive, while leaving the slate clean for a new vision.
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