Giambattista Valli doesn't want to talk about Truman Capote, even though backstage at his fall 2024 show, his mood board had a couple of photos of the subject of Ryan Murphy's hit series “Feud: Capote vs. The Swans.”
“This isn't about that, it's about my friend Lee,” Radziwill, the designer, was quick to say when asked about it, recalling how “he was together 24 hours” with her, going to parties, to her house, to Marrakesh. and beyond with the late style icon and sister of Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis, who died in 2019.
“I miss that kind of quality,” he said, adding that she had a knack for coming up with a sentence that summed up an entire situation.
That quality, or really Radziwill's taste, was at the heart of her strong fall 2024 collection, inspired by her dual personality: elegant, tailored and timeless versus eclectic, boho and colorful, two style fields that also have a little of his own fight on the catwalks this season.
The two were in harmony in the collection, which opened with a gorgeous floor-length black coat, beautifully tailored with three shiny buttons, worn over a white turtleneck, white pants and black flats. It seemed simple, and that's not always something you think about with Valli.
Little by little, boho came to the fore, but respecting the classic lines and silhouettes, as in an ivory minidress with Indian-inspired red paisley embroidery or, for mom, a longer-cut tunic with shearling cuffs and hem.
Valli played with super short and super long lengths, offering something for everyone, resulting in a gorgeous pale blue paisley jacquard coat mini dress with crystal buttons and a floral maxi dress with a paisley jacquard shearling lined short vest , For example. Similarly, a grizzled tweed pantsuit was paired with a charming jumpsuit version with shearling on the dungaree top.
India, interior design, impeccable bouquets, all the elements of Radziwill's cultivated life were here, in the colorful botanical threads on a sweeping white robe, the neatest black floral embroidery on a khaki trench coat, and more. And the evening wear, which included a pale pink cut-out dress gathered into a crystal belt and shorter, sparklier styles with longer legs, was “Swans” 2024.
That is if not all people in high society have gone crazy, carried away by celebrities.
“Super cultured people,” as Valli prefers to call them, still exist. “You can't pay them to come to light, they choose,” he said. “But it is not a snobbish point of view. You can be selective in your life; “It's a question of one color over another, one flower over another, it's a cultural point of view that I think will become more and more focused in the future.”
For more Paris Fashion Week reviews, click here.
