Gabriela Hearst and Wiederhoeft weather the fashion storm

New York City was in high drama mode on Tuesday as the Northeast was hit with its first 'major' snowstorm in more than two years, unfortunately leading to lower-than-usual attendance levels at shows in the first half. of the day.

Gabriela Hearst

Gabriela Hearst – Fall-Winter 2024 – 2025 – Women's clothing – New York – ©Launchmetrics/spotlight

The Gabriela Hearst show appeared to be affected by the weather, as several front row seats remained open during the show, and standing guests quickly found a seat as the second row moved forward. It may have been the weather or because many people are tired from the walk through the Brooklyn Navy Yard.

If they had, they would have given them a too-beautiful-to-eat variety that surpassed last season's broth offerings (Has anyone been exploring Yolanda Garretti's restaurant? Smorgasbords from Acquolina for Sabyasachi (please tell me?) and some clever pieces to build a wardrobe from Hearst's latest collection. The vegan variety echoes the collection; Hearst is equally adept at replicating animal-based foods as she is animal-based clothing.

The show notes explained that Hearst was referencing Leonora Carrington's paintings that depict ethereal, dreamlike worlds where the imagination runs wild. Carrington's paintings are based on symbols from ancient Celtic folk tales: white horses, green forests, magical goddesses and the like. So if you thought the show was giving elegance game of Thrones either stranger vibes, apparently, you were hitting the mark.

The show began with intricate paisley dresses that reached to the ankles and had a boning effect on the midsection that was particularly attractive, especially considering the extreme temperatures of the Agger Fish building: freezing in February and sweltering in September. Equally appealing were shaggy, shaggy knit coats, an emerging trend for the season best referred to as Snuffleupagus Chic. The cashmere-like fur effect was proposed as long robes, which could be a tough sell for anyone not looking for the flintstone aesthetic.

Other standouts included suede sundresses with paper-thin patches; a silk satin slip dress that framed the midsection to the pubic bone with delicate lace trim, powerful in a white satin version. A Carrington mask was turned upside down and turned into a corseted bustier with a leather dress; Hand-twisted pleating on a leather trench coat highlighted the craftsmanship one appreciates and craves at Chez Hearst. The latter was applauded by Golden age Actors Louisa Jacobson and Morgan Spector who attended the show, who highlighted Hearst's skillful craftsmanship, an undeniable fact and what his audience comes to appreciate. A handful of new bags, the Winehouse bag, the Carrington and the Leonora, among others, reconfirmed Gabriela Hearst's dedication to leather goods.


Wiederhoeft – Fall-Winter 2024 – 2025 – Women's Clothing – New York – ©Launchmetrics/spotlight

Jackson Wiederhoeft, a student of Thom Browne, designs cool wedding dresses that are often built around the corset, which has become the designer's signature. It has been a very successful venture for the designer; He helped inspire and presumably finance his ready-to-wear brand, which also bears the Wiederhoeft name.

With an ABC business philosophy, also known as “Always Corset,” the designer takes the corset out of the bedroom and out of the bride, proving that the sexy staple is ready for almost any look.

Speaking to after the show, Wiederhoeft explained that her blushing beauties are never forgotten. “I work with 8-10 private bridal appointments weekly in our 'secret room' showroom where we remove the mirror. When they try on a corset and go out to see themselves, it's like opening the door to another version of themselves,” she said, adding that the process helps you understand if the pieces work.

“It's an intimate experience being with clients in the changing rooms, where the client is vulnerable, but you get to the bottom of their clothing desires,” Wiederhoeft said.

The show recreated this salon atmosphere, not through an obvious set, but by working with movement director Austin Goodwin, who gave it personality by working with each model, many of whom have modeled for the brand for five years, and their clothing. .

Beyond the altar, Wiederhoeft assembled a group of characters (evoking the sensibility of the John Galliano show) who demonstrated that the corset works in several ways: think new zipper and neckline details, a fitted jacket style or a coat Victorian style, but In addition, the brand can also represent sequin hoodies and trapeze-style dresses, bow-embellished coats, classic tailoring with a twist, and original boxing shorts with cheeky expressions that allude to the wedding experience. A sequin top and lace skirt were based on a look Wiederhoeft wore a few years ago.

A crowd-pleaser was a crochet bolero and fitted skirt inspired by the first collection and reworked with silk ribbon and tinsel with couture-level craftsmanship.

“I don't think anything is a totally new idea, but I wanted to evolve some ideas until they were perfect,” Wiederhoeft reflected, adding: “Clothes are a tool to discover and find new places in yourself that you didn't know about.” .” And Wiederhoeft's clothes are definitely to be discovered for those who don't know her yet.

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