focus on Japanese brands Mihara Yasuhiro and Kenzo

Paris Fashion Week is the ideal occasion to discover Japanese creativity. In addition to brands that have left a significant mark on the French capital's fashion scene, such as Yohji Yamamoto and Comme des Garçons, other names have been attracting attention lately. the Maison Mihara Yasuhiro, who was born in 1997 as Miharayasuhiro and returned to the Parisian calendar under the new name in 2016, and Nigo, a designer who became famous in the 90s with his streetwear brand, A Bath Ape, and in 2022 he was tasked with relaunching Kenzo.

Nigo chose the Bibliothèque Nationale de France (BNF), located in the heart of Paris, on rue Vivienne, a few meters from the Kenzo headquarters, as the venue for his fifth Kenzo exhibition. The location had recently been chosen by another LVMH label, Celine, which filmed its summer 2024 show there. The imposing BNF building opened to the public a year ago, after renovations that lasted a decade. Guests at the show sat in the spectacular Labrouste room, characterized by nine domes topped by iron arches.

Among the guests, rappers such as Trippie Redd, Quavo and Zack Bia, and the American singer and producer Pharrell Williams, an old friend of Nigo. Williams is the creative director of men's fashion at Louis Vuitton, which was presented a few days ago, and stood out posing for photographers with Sidney Toledano, before greeting Michael Burke, Toledano's successor at the head of LVMH's fashion division , which includes many major brands, Kenzo among them.

Some of the models hit the catwalk carrying a couple of books tied together with a strap, but they looked more like travelers than students. For its Autumn/Winter 2024-25 collection, Nigo has abandoned denim to focus on a classic and comfortable wardrobe, designed for the itinerant globetrotter, including various outerwear pieces.

For example, a harness with large pockets or a padded vest was worn over a formal suit. Fine wool suits with gold buttons were paired with large holdalls, while other suits featured an interlocking pattern that became a recurring motif, in a variety of sizes, in several other looks. Reverse leather sport jackets and oversized mittens inspired by the travel and outdoor theme.

The collection featured many oriental, and especially Japanese, influences, such as samurai-style costumes with a touch of science fiction taken from George Lucas. Star Wars. Jackets and long hooded coats resembled kimonos, star constellations were printed or embroidered on certain fabrics, peplums draped over pants recalled the attire of ancient Japanese warriors, and some women's styles included boots and tight thigh-high dresses. . sparkling with silver and gold sequins, cinched at the waist with a judo-style belt.

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Maison Mihara Yasuhiro continued to explore the oversized theme he introduced with the Spring/Summer 2024 collection. The proportions of all the pieces, whether denim jackets, parkas, sweatshirts, cardigans or varsity jackets, were decidedly exaggerated. A “big silhouette”, as Yasuhiro defined it, which was extended to the entire collection, which included novelties with increasing volumes, such as down jackets, giant fleeces with zippers and thick hand-knit cardigans whose sleeves reached the floor. . as if he were straining under the weight of the fabric.

A quilted denim jacket and a rounded bomber jacket extended to the point of folding in on themselves, creating a double layer and leaving an opening for arms to slide through. These garments could easily be used as capes thanks to their openings under the arms, the body of the wearer disappearing, swallowed by their voluminous shapes.

The effect was that of children wearing adult clothing that was too big for them, the models' bodies shrinking under the garments. A nostalgic touch of childhood was evident in the small bags hanging at the end of a cord, worn around the neck or in the hand, shaped like dinosaurs and other miniature monsters. An accessory that could become a great success. A longing for the past, especially for the 80s and 90s, so dear to Yasuhiro, can also be glimpsed in the various grunge-style garments, faded and seemingly faded by time.

The show was enlivened by a DJ mixing an electro-pop soundtrack from his aquarium-style booth in the middle of the set, and by cheerleaders dressed in red, white and blue, a nod to this year's Paris Olympics. Yasuhiro said that he was inspired by the nightlife atmosphere and designed a collection full of sparkling effects. Threads of silver lurex sparkled on sweaters, while some jackets and oversized bags looked like Christmas tinsel. Leather took on a vinyl look on white enamel-effect pants and coats and on shiny patent leather ensembles.