Liisa Kessler, Filippa K's new creative director, has been working to return the brand to its roots with sensual, practical and well-made clothing and wants to offer a new idea of what Scandinavian style can be.
“We ask ourselves what Scandinavian style means today and the answer is simple clothes without excessive designs. “It’s also about intimacy, how garments feel on the body, and timeless, sustainable, ‘real’ products for every day,” he told WWD in an interview last year.
For fall, he delivered just that, launching a line of fluid suits with wide-shouldered jackets and baggy pants; draped, belted coats and sexy fabrics.
The designer, who previously worked at Chloé with Clare Waight Keller and with Anthony Vaccarello at Saint Laurent, took inspiration from an unconventional source: a 1990s photography book showing generic office spaces in places like Stockholm, Tokyo and New York. York.
She was inspired by the palette of cognac, camel, burgundy and dark blue, and the textures of curtains, rugs and tablecloths. Although it may not seem promising, the result was a classic and elegant collection.
He sent out baggy suits (chalk stripes, plains, or grizzled Donegal tweed) and sometimes paired those baggy jackets with faded black jeans or pants with open hems. The coats had a similar relaxed attitude, although the shoulders were rounder and softer.
The knits were fantastic and included bold off-the-shoulder designs that Kessler paired with long button-front skirts or silky, stretchy styles. There was even a 20s style dress with that liquid, elastic and sustainable fabric.
There was plenty of layering, including a sleeveless turtleneck and a hoodie under a rounded, fuzzy coat.
A belted, ribbed-knit maxi dress radiated warmth, as did a line of muscular pullovers and slim argyle cardigans in the muted colors of those retro offices. Once they left the glaring light of the office, those colors, textures and shapes took on a whole new life.
For more PFW reviews, click here.
