If there's one brand that can claim ownership of red, it's Ferrari, and for fall, creative designer Rocco Iannone kicked off the collection with a series of looks in the color that screamed “energy and light,” which he said were his starting points for alignment. But at the same time, “there is no light without darkness,” he said, veering toward a group of all-black looks.
The play of contrasts was not limited to the palettes, as Iannone worked with structured and fluid denim, shiny and matte, and treated it with a special resin that resulted in a kind of glass patina. The latter was intriguing, but, for example, a pouf skirt seemed a little stiff, as did the pants and shirt combo in a silk and metal fabric.
Iannone has spoken over the years of his interest in couture constructions, fabrications and unique materials and this season he has not stopped experimenting with hand-painted leather or shiny chains embroidered on lattice threads. The organza had a reflective look and the frossé velvets had an iridescent hand.
There was some strong tailoring, and their blazers had a defined waist and narrow sculpted sleeves.
He transformed the driving shoe into a ballerina, also for men, made of wrinkled leather with a square toe or boot.
Iannone has been building the fashion business for the brand, paying homage to its history but also injecting his own vision, which has been coming together. But while there were some strong looks this season, others felt a little forced.
It's not easy to build a luxury fashion brand from scratch, not even one based on such an illustrious history. Iannone's collections had so far been purring as smoothly as a Ferrari engine, but this season it stagnated a bit.
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