Corsets are a hot topic in fashion, and with good reason. After decades of suffering, the women finally shed the whale bones, took a deep breath, and finished the dessert, without fainting afterwards. Still, some brands and designers love them, including Ermanno Scervino, whose elegant collection fused corset shapes with tweed, herringbone, and crocodile-embossed leather.
“This season is all about form. The waists are beautifully narrow and corset inspired. But there are no bones. It’s soft and comfortable,” said brand co-founder Toni Scervino, who runs the business. He replaced designer Ermanno Daelli, who was unable to attend the show due to last-minute personal reasons.
The brand was in tune with the Milanese mood for autumn. Designers have been looking to classic shapes and traditional tailoring fabrics and want to make clothes that last. Value for money, even at this level of the market, is a phrase on the lips of many designers at a time when luxury spending is becoming normalised.
Daelli worked in black and white herringbone, tweed and striped wool on hourglass-shaped blazers, while a curvy miniskirt suit came in Manzanilla olive-green crocodile-print leather.
Strapless sheath dresses were also inspired by the corset and were paired with small knit boleros, while a peach-toned satin dress with padding and rosettes had boudoir appeal. There were structured bra tops galore, layered under fitted jackets and paired with wide-leg wool trousers.
The corsets weren't the only star. Backstage, Scervino said the brand's winter clothing is flying out of stores in resorts from Cortina to Gstaad and beyond, hence the hand-embroidered yeti boots, wool coats and shearling jackets at earth tones and soft pastels.
A long tweed coat packed with sparkling embellishments captured the mood of this reflective Milan season where tradition meets glamour.
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