For those who don't have time to see Mark Rothko's exhibition at the Louis Vuitton Foundation while in town, Di Du put his own interpretation of his work on the runway. Inspired by the late artist and the writings of one of his favorite authors, Edgar Allan Poe (which seems to be a fashion trend this season, with the Thom Browne show in New York), the Chinese designer's slender silhouettes were darkly changing. disturbing with poetic tension on the catwalk.
In a palette of black, red and olive green, she built her silhouettes around fine knits and easy-to-wear jerseys, contrasting fluffy textures with volumes of sheer and translucent organza. The floor-length mohair dresses had super-plunging necklines and hinted at the gothic, but carried the promise of comfort as well as style. The double-layered miniskirts featured translucent tails on one side, combining fluidity with precision. Touches of red on black—side panels on a sharp-shouldered tailored vest, a cross cut into the front of a dress, or a fuzzy stripe in the fabric along the waist of a dark jacket—heightened the sense of drama.
She draped and twisted her fabrics to create an abstract rose motif as a summary of her chosen theme. The fluffy details of the scarf and hood accentuated her silhouette, adding a grunge touch, while the faux fur coats in murky green enhanced the mood. Even her white T-shirt dress, with its offset seams and her nonchalant stance, summed up how, with her slender silhouettes that are sexy without being stereotypical, Di Du continues to assert her distinctive aesthetic and the relevance of it.
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