Demna breaks new ground at grandma's table

Models paraded past Demna's grandmother's dining room table, expanded to 70 meters long, and built in front of Napoleon's Tomb, at her show for Balenciaga on Monday night.

The Georgia-born designer's latest epic show, born from very personal memories of drawing looks on cardboard as a pre-teen 35 years ago and then putting on children's shows on his grandmother's mahogany table in Sojumi.

A very personal and experimental show from the designer who continues to make the greatest efforts in today's fashion. Showing untested techniques in an opening lingerie section: Not exactly the look one expected at a grandma show, but that doesn't hurt.

A designer known for his subversive mix of volume, street and couture, focusing instead on fragility, femininity and lace. Although it creates everything in a revolutionary trompe l'oeil: embroidery on fabrics based on skin tone and jacquard used in knitwear. Although, inevitably, an extra dose of subversion is added with corsets with loose ribbons at the back of various dresses that expose acres of flesh.

“Straight sex appeal, lace and embellishments are not really my aesthetic,” Demna laughed among a crowd of editors after the show.

His other big idea was the cocoon, although again in a very new way, carefully avoiding any retro connotations by creating very short jackets that ended mid-torso, rather than something traditionally long. Again, technically bold as they were super lightweight but held their shape with neoprene interfaces. And all this combined with jeans with anatomical darts.

And, like so many other things he has done for Balenciaga, it will surely be very influential.

Another brilliant innovation was their new superhero imperial coats finished with high 17th century Medici collars, which were, in fact, made of women's corsets designed at the neckline and elasticated.

“I love the idea of ​​multiple functions in the same garment,” smiled Demna, who also showed a strange series of clip-on garments, which elastically fastened to the body like bracelets.

“It is a project we have been working on for a year. In fact, I'm very proud of them. Not to put it on, but to put it on,” Demna smiled, wearing a hoodie from the collection that said 'Being Human.'

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At one point, their show suddenly picked up speed, as Britney Spears' 'Gimme More' blared from the speakers. And the clothes became more and more, too, as each model became overloaded with additional garments. Baggy pants, hoodie, plaid shirt, t-shirt, trench coat and triple jackets (jeans, blazer and suit), all in one look. There's almost always a refugee feel to any Demna show, but in this case, it looked as if they had come from picking up their own clothes from the dry cleaners.

Maybe that's why so many editors, fashion lovers and, of course, critics love Demna, since many of them feel a bit like refugees from the established order.

“I like disorder when it is organized. Fashion should be perfect, refined and impeccable, from the clothes to the way we sell. But for me, fashion needs to be messed up and fucked up and thrown in places and not based on fear… And what I wanted to say with 'Gimme More' is that everyone always wants more, and people want a lot more of you. “added the designer.

When asked why her invitation included a gold ring, she responded: “Today felt like a homecoming from this obsession, this marriage to fashion, this job…. “It’s probably my longest relationship, which is weird to say.”

Altogether, this show was an incredibly powerful display and a true fashion moment, held on the penultimate day of Paris Fashion Week.

Demna remains unconditionally inspired by youth culture, but continues to push himself every season; Another reason why he remains one of the half dozen most important designers today.