Chloe's new designer returns to her roots

For her first collection at the helm of Chloe, designer Chemena Kamali goes back to the Parisian house's 70s and the mix of femininity and bohemian chic of its then designer Karl Lagerfeld.

“Coming back to Chloe felt very natural to me, like coming home, and also a new beginning,” said the 41-year-old German, who worked for the brand as an intern and then under the tutelage of Phoebe Philo in the early 2000s.

For her first collection in charge, Kamali played with contrasts: feminine and masculine, chiffon and vinyl, dusty pink and army green, white lace and thigh-high black boots.

One look that seemed to embody the collection was a sheer, flowy dress under a stiff black leather coat.

Kamali replaced Gabriela Hearst, who lasted only three years at Chloe. Her focus on sustainability won praise but failed to generate much of a boost in sales.

Born in Germany and trained at Central Saint Martins in London, Kamali was poached from Saint Laurent, where she was head of women's ready-to-wear.

“I want to go back to the original roots of the house and build a sensual Chloe that radiates warmth and positivity,” he said.